Cycling to the Fish Market of Tanji – The Gambia

An Active Discovery Tour Through Authentic Gambia. I say it often… and I’ll keep saying it: discovering a new place by bicycle is healthy, easy and really the best way to see and discover a lot in a short time. You feel the place well. You’re part of the environment. Just like walking, but faster.

Smiling Coast of West Africa

Have you ever been to The Gambia?

The Gambia is a small country on the west coast of Africa. They call it THE Gambia because the river that crosses the country is called Gambia River. The country is completely surrounded by Senegal. I heard the word “Senegambia” everywhere. Much in this country is done in cooperation with Senegal. That’s sometimes really good, but can also have its negative effects.

Why The Gambia?

I hadn’t visited this small country before. But I heard positive reports from many people. The Gambian people are very friendly. The weather is just great during our winter period. I went at the end of February and returned at the beginning of March. The weather there was fantastic. In the morning and evening still a bit fresh, but in the afternoon it easily reached 30 degrees.

The Meeting with Captain Aka

On my first day I walked along the beach. Enjoyed the weather. This new country. The people were very nice. Everyone wanted to chat with me. Not everyone was out to rake in money. To sell a trip or something else. I got into conversation with someone who calls himself Captain Aka. He was a fisherman and lived in Bijilo. After a nice conversation it came to this: we were going to cycle together the next day.

I wanted to cycle. He could arrange bikes. He would show me Tanji, the village known for its many fishermen and the bustling fish market. Just the perfect plan!

The Route: From Bijilo to Tanji

Starting Point: Lemon Creek Hotel

We started our day at Lemon Creek, a hotel in Bijilo where you can also rent bikes just outside the gate. I rented two bikes for the rest of the day. We got on and started pedaling. First along the main road.

Cycling on the Main Road: Watch Out!

Cycling along the main road isn’t always safe. Don’t stay here too long, but quickly dive into one of those nice side roads. There’s of course no bike path like we’re used to.

The Gambia has one main road. The highway, so to speak. This is used for everything. It’s not a highway like we know them – it’s just the most important traffic artery through the entire country.

Outside built-up areas: maximum 80 km/h. Within built-up areas, like here: 50 km/h.

Safe cycling? My tips:

• Always stay alert, look in front and behind you
• Don’t stay on the main road too long
• Make sure you’re seen (light clothing helps)
• Quickly dive into the side roads for relaxed cycling

I loved it! If you don’t stay on the main road too long, you can cycle nice and relaxed afterwards. And there you have much more to look at!

Through the Streets of Brufut

Soon we were at Turntable – a roundabout that everyone in The Gambia knows as “Turntable”. Here we turned right. After a short bit we crossed and went into the streets of Brufut. I really enjoyed cycling here! We got into conversation with people selling something at a local market. We zigzagged through the neighborhood like this.

I love such local streets. This really shows you how the Gambian lives.

Children waved. Women balanced baskets on their heads. Men played dominoes in the shade. Authentic Gambia, on a bicycle.

The Majestic Baobab Trees

And what do you think of the enormous Baobab trees? You see them everywhere and they give the place a great appearance.

So old. So dominantly present. Already 100 years? Maybe 500? I can’t even imagine that people walked here 100 years ago and the same tree stood here. Maybe exactly in the same spot where I’m now standing on my bike. That’s just amazing!

From Brufut to Tanji

After we had cycled in several streets, we continued to Tanji. Again a stretch on the highway but here it was much less busy. Of course you have to keep paying attention to traffic. Make sure you know for certain that you’re seen.

But there’s plenty to see in the area. You cycle past a bird nature reserve. Many birds are spotted here. Watch out for the monkeys that also run around there! 🐒

Arrival in Tanji: The Smell Announces It

And then we arrived at the village of Tanji. I must honestly admit: the village announced itself before we were there. OMG what a smell!

The place is amazing, but the smell is terrible! Every day thousands of kilos of fish are hauled ashore here. For restaurants or the hotels. And for local markets throughout The Gambia.

They clean the fish on the spot…

The Fish Market of Tanji: A Sensory Experience

The activity is overwhelming. Everywhere you see:

• Fishermen Bringing in Boats Colorful wooden fishing boats are pulled up the beach. Men pull on ropes. Sing work rhythms. Together, in sync.
• Women Cleaning Fish The fish are cleaned immediately. Dozens of women sit in groups. Knives flash. Scales fly. Fish waste piles up.
• Smoking Ovens in Action They’re also being smoked! Large smoking ovens are steaming. The fish are being preserved for transport to the inland. The smoke smell mixes with the fish smell. An intense combination.
• Trade and Activity Traders negotiate. Women balance baskets full of fish on their heads. Children run through the activity. It’s chaotic and fascinating at the same time.

I found it amazing to see it all! The energy. The colors. The sounds. Pure, unfiltered authenticity.

Back via the Beach

After we had walked around here for a while, I thought it was enough. The smell started to bother me. We also had to cycle back. Aka suggested cycling back over the beach. Great!

The beach was empty and super nice to cycle on. Chatting away, we were back in Bijilo in no time. The wind through my hair. The sound of the waves. The sun slowly setting. Perfect end to a perfect cycling day.

Practical Information: Cycling to Tanji

Costs and Duration

Bike rental:

• Two bikes for an afternoon: 300 dalasi (just over 5 euros)
• Rented at Hotel Lemon Creek in Bijilo
• Also available at other hotels and guesthouses

Time investment:

• Including stops and looking around: 4-5 hours
• Start: around 12:00 noon
• Arrival Tanji: around 3:30 pm

 Best Time to Go

Morning (7:00 – 10:00):

• Not too hot yet
• Fishermen come in with catch
• Most activity

Important Tips

• Check your bike beforehand – Tires hard enough? Brakes working? Saddle at right height? Prevent problems along the way.
• Bring water! It’s hot and especially on the dry, dusty roads you get thirsty. Bring at least 1.5 liters per person.
• Use sunscreen and bring something to protect yourself from the sun. It can happen quickly when you cycle for a few hours. My arm was definitely burned on one side! 😅
• Bring some cash – For drinks along the way, possibly buying fresh fish, or small purchases at local markets.
• Camera or phone – The fish market is photogenic, but always ask permission before photographing people.
• Bring a bike lock – Although The Gambia is safe, it’s wise to lock your bike at stops.
• Go with a local – Like I did with Aka. They know the best routes and can tell stories along the way.

What to Do in Tanji (Besides the Fish Market)

Tanji Bird Reserve

• Bird reserve near the fish market
• More than 300 bird species
• Walking trails through mangrove and coastal area
• Entrance: about 100 dalasi

Tanji Village Museum

• Small museum about local history and culture
• Traditional houses and tools
• Demonstrations of crafts
• Entrance: about 50-100 dalasi

Local eateries

• Eat fresh fish (of course!)
• Try domoda (peanut stew) or benachin (rice dish)
• Very cheap and authentic

Popular Accommodations in Bijilo:

• Baobab Resort – Where I stayed, nice middle-class resort
• Lemon Creek Hotel – Where I rented the bikes
• Kasumi Beach Resort – Slightly more luxurious option
• B&B Villa Calliandra – Cheaper and more authentic

Frequently Asked Questions About Cycling to Tanji

• Do I need to be a good cyclist to do this route? No, the route is mostly flat. Average condition is sufficient. Take it easy and drink enough.
• Can I go alone or do I need a guide? You can easily go alone, the route is easy. A local as guide makes it more fun and you learn more about the area.
• Are the bikes of good quality? Basic but functional. No racing bikes, but fine for this distance. Do check the brakes and tires beforehand.
• Is the beach always passable with the bike? Depends on the tide. At high tide it’s more difficult. At low tide you have hard sand and it’s perfect.
• Can I buy fresh fish at the market? Absolutely! But keep in mind you have to keep it fresh during the return journey. Ask your hotel if they can prepare it.
• Is it busy at the fish market? Yes, especially in the morning. Afternoon is quieter but still lively.

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