During my visit to Sihanoukville, I quickly went from disappointment to paradise. Read how that happened 🙂 After a month of backpacking through Vietnam, Laos, and Cambodia, I was ready for some rest. The beach was calling, but my first destination, Sihanoukville, turned out to be a big disappointment.
Sihanoukville: Mass Tourism
In Sihanoukville, I stayed at hotel New Seaview Villa, a decent accommodation with a good restaurant on the main road to the beach. Full of anticipation, I headed to Serendipity Beach, complete with bikini, sarong, towel, and book.
What I encountered was an anticlimax: miles of beach loungers in tight rows, barely any space between the beds, a dirty beach, and constantly pushy vendors with flyers for happy hours and boat trips. Every five minutes I was disturbed. This was pure mass tourism, mainly aimed at young backpackers who came here to party and drink.
Please note: Since then, Sihanoukville has developed further with high-rise flats and mass tourism has increased tenfold. Those seeking peace and quiet are better off travelling directly to the islands.
The Discovery: Koh Rong Samloem
Fortunately, I could only book one night at my hotel, which forced me to look for alternatives. At a travel agency, I discovered trips to various islands: Koh Rong, Koh Dek, Koh Kaong, and Koh Rong Samloem. I booked an overnight stay in a bungalow on Koh Rong Samloem, the quietest island in the region. In retrospect, I would have loved to book multiple nights!
The Boat Trip to the Island
Travel time: Just over an hour by boat from Sihanoukville
Route: Via Koh Rong (to drop off other tourists) to the peaceful Koh Rong Samloem
The boat was filled with various nationalities, all looking for their own piece of paradise. We were all excited and looking forward to the island.
My Bungalow at Freedom Island
My bungalow was fantastic! Located just 10 meters from the ocean, with a great view from the balcony. The only downside: the beach on my side of the island was less clean due to the current coming directly from the busy mainland of Cambodia.
The Accommodation
Freedom Island had 8 bungalows at the time, divided into two rows with the restaurant in the middle. The resort is run by Stefan, a friendly German who welcomed us warmly.
Facilities:
- Electricity until 11:00 PM
- Restaurant with limited but sufficient choice
- A swimming pool/pond to cool off
- No shops on the island (everything through the restaurant)
Discovering the Cleanest Beach
Via a small jungle path, just 150 meters walk, I reached a much cleaner beach on the other side. There were also some bungalows here, but mine was certainly the best choice. The water here was crystal clear and the beach inviting.
After breakfast the next morning, I set off. I had grabbed some extra bread for the road and bought a can of soda.
The Jungle Hike to the Other Side
Stefan told me during dinner about an even more beautiful beach on the other side of the island, a 45-minute hike through the jungle. Of course, I decided to do it the next morning.
The Trek Across Koh Rong Samloem
After breakfast, I left with extra bread and a can of soda. The path started at the beach and quickly turned right into the forest, slowly climbing to the highest point of the island. For a moment I doubted whether I was still on the right path, but after half an hour I reached a kind of meadow with an abandoned hut.
After another 15 minutes of walking, I saw some houses and then… a light blue glow through the trees. I had arrived!
The Paradise Beach
The best moment: I had the beach completely to myself! White, clean sand and seawater so clear that you could still see your toes while you were almost underwater.
I enjoyed it to the fullest: sunbathing, swimming in the crystal-clear water, and searching for shells along the shoreline. Later, two other couples joined, one staying on this side of the island, the other via the same path as me.
A Special Encounter That Really Scared Me! When I was enjoying my swim, I suddenly saw a snake swimming by! Fascinating to see, but I immediately got out of the water. The chance of experiencing this is quite small, but just to be safe, bring your camera!
The Beach by My Bungalow
Farewell to Paradise Koh Rong Samloem
When the heat became too intense, I walked back via the jungle path. Time to enjoy a shower in my bungalow and the view from my balcony.
In the afternoon, a staff member from the restaurant came to pick me up. Together we walked with my bag to the other beach where the “party boat” was already waiting, meters from the shore. Wading through knee-deep water (fortunately my bag stayed dry!), I reached the boat.
The Return Trip to Sihanoukville
Fortunately, it was a quiet boat ride. The other passengers had had a long day of drinking and partying and were often sunburned. They were resting, which gave me a peaceful return trip to Sihanoukville.
Practical Tips for Your Visit
Minimum Stay
Book at least 2 nights! One night is really too short to enjoy this paradise.
What to Bring
- Food and drinks for the evening – You can buy it from Stefan, but the choice is limited and pricey
- A good book – Perfect for lazy beach moments
- Good hiking shoes – For the jungle hike
- Swimwear and towel
- Sunscreen – The sun is intense here
- Camera – For the beautiful landscapes (and maybe a sea snake!)
- Cash – No ATMs on the island
- Flashlight – After 11:00 PM there’s no electricity
Best Time to Visit
The dry season runs from November to April. During the rainy season (May-October), boat connections can be irregular.
Why I Consider Koh Rong Samloem a Must-Visit
In two days, I had an amazing experience on Koh Rong Samloem. The island offered the peace I was looking for after weeks of backpacking. The combination of a comfortable bungalow by the sea, beautiful jungle walks, and pristine beaches made this an unforgettable stay.
I would have loved to stay longer and now have a perfect reason to return to Cambodia!
There are now multiple resorts on the island. I can’t find Freedom Island among them anymore. Now I would choose Robinson Bungalows 🙂
Want to read some more about Cambodia?
- Floating City near Siem Reap
- The Horrors of the Khmer Rouge – Killing Fields.
- Angkor, Siem Reap – Cambodia