Puglia surprised me at every turn. Not with the polished perfection of tourist hotspots, but with raw beauty, ancient architecture, and an authenticity you won’t find anywhere else in Europe. I did this Puglia road trip itinerary in the off-season (November), which allowed me to experience Puglia’s authentic charm without the crowds. In Alberobello, I had the streets almost to myself in the early morning, a luxury you won’t have in July or August.
From Brindisi through countless trulli, cave cities, and white towns. An authentic adventure through the heart of Southern Italy
This road trip took me through white hilltop towns, fairytale-like trulli, and cave cities whose stories still whisper through narrow alleyways. With a rental car for just €18 for three days, I had the freedom to discover this special part of Italy at my own pace.
How to Get to Puglia?
Puglia has two airports, both easily accessible from the Netherlands:
Bari (BRI) – Larger airport in northern Puglia. Most flight options from the Netherlands (Transavia, Ryanair, Wizz Air) and often cheaper than Brindisi. Ideal if you want to spend a day in the capital before starting your road trip.
Brindisi (BDS) – Smaller, more manageable airport in the south. Fewer flights but better located for this specific route.
Practical: Car Rental in Puglia
The basis of this Puglia road trip itinerary? A car for just €18 for three days that I picked up at Brindisi airport. Through Economy Bookings, I ended up with Viaggare, a local rental company that worked perfectly. It was surprisingly cheap – right after this road trip, I rented a car in Naples and visited the Amalfi Coast. There too, I had a car for 4 days for only €20.
Choice: With or Without Extra Insurance
I consciously chose not to get extra insurance. I trust my own driving style and hope that others won’t hit me (while driving or when parked). This choice is personal, make your own assessment. Many travelers do choose full coverage; removing risks through insurance is somewhat in us Dutch people’s nature. That insurance is easy to add and would cost between 5 and 10 euros per day.
Tips for Car Rental in Puglia
ZTL Zones (Zona Traffico Limitato) These are restricted traffic zones in historic centers where tourists are not allowed to drive. Cameras automatically register your license plate and the fine (€50-100+) arrives weeks later by mail. Pay close attention to the signs! Alberobello, Ostuni, and Matera all have ZTL zones.
Parking
- Blue lines = paid parking (often €1-2 per hour)
- White lines = free parking
- Yellow lines = permit holders only
Smaller Car is Handier The narrow streets in Puglian villages aren’t built for large cars. A compact car makes parking and maneuvering much easier, and you’ll need that sometimes.
Navigation I could use Google Maps well in the car. I had a Fiat Panda and it didn’t have a screen to connect my phone. I did have that in the Citroën C3 on the Amalfi Coast a few days later.
Tip: Book your car online in advance. Prices at the airport can be higher.
Choose Bari for Your Puglia Road Trip Itinerary Starting Point
I flew to Bari because flights are more frequent and cheaper. I first spent a day in Bari itself, a vibrant port city that’s absolutely worth visiting. After Bari, I spent a month in Santa Maria di Leuca and then took the train to Brindisi, which is why I rented my car in Brindisi.
Why Choose Bari?
- Cheaper and better flight connections to Bari
- Get a day in Bari as a bonus (great city!)
- Pick up and return car in Bari = no extra costs
- Alternative endpoint possible (I then took FlixBus to Naples where I rented another car)
Important tip about car rental: Picking up a car in Bari and returning it in another city quickly costs €100+ extra.
I initially considered driving the car to Naples and returning it there. Price-wise, it was a better option to return the car and take the FlixBus to Naples. There I rented a car again for a few days. That saved me over 100 euros.
Best Time to Visit Puglia
Off-Season (September-November) & Spring (April-May)
- Ideal for sightseeing
- Pleasant temperatures (18-25°C)
- Much fewer tourists
High Season (June-August)
- Hot (30-38°C)
- Very busy in popular places
- Higher prices
- Reservations essential
- Perfect beach temperatures
Winter Months (December-March)
- Quietest period
- Chance of rain
- Many accommodations closed
I traveled in November and found this the perfect period: warm enough for sightseeing, cool enough to walk comfortably, and without the crowds of high season. Great time for this Puglia road trip itinerary.
Day 1: Bari – Getting to Know Puglia’s Capital
Pick up your rental car and drive it into the city. Parking is paid everywhere but you can almost always find a spot nearby.
The day after arriving in Bari, I explored the city on foot. Bari Vecchia, the old town, is a fascinating maze of narrow streets where elderly ladies make pasta on the street. The cathedral, castle, and Basilica di San Nicola are beautiful, and the atmosphere along the boulevard is wonderfully relaxed.
Read more for things to do in Bari
Where to Stay in Bari: Golden Dreams – In the old town, very affordable apartment. Or go for luxury and book Dimaro Arco Basso. Also in the middle of the old town, but what makes this perfect is that it’s on the street where Orecchiette is made. Perfect if you want to be the first witness of that in the morning.
Day 2: Bari – Ostuni – Brindisi
In the morning, you say goodbye to Bari after an Italian breakfast (cappuccino and cornetto) on the street where the orecchiette is made. You head south. The drive to Ostuni takes about an hour.
Morning: Ostuni – La Città Bianca
What a town, when I arrived I was immediately impressed! The entire village shines in white – not for nothing is it called ‘La Città Bianca’. I lost myself in a maze of small alleys, visited the old basilica in the historic center, and was amazed at how people lived in this fortress centuries ago. The architecture, the narrow streets, the differences in height, everything breathes history.
Tip: Park at the bottom of the town at one of the paid parking lots (around €1.50 per hour) and walk up. The narrow streets aren’t suitable for cars. The center is largely a ZTL zone.
Optional: If you want more time in Ostuni, you can also stay here at Dama Bianca Boutique Hotel. I stayed here during my Puglia road trip. I also enjoyed the evening in Ostuni, with the lights on in the streets of the old town.
Afternoon: Brindisi
A pleasant city to wander through, without the crowds of typical tourist spots. Along the water, you can enjoy the harbor atmosphere. In the old town center, you stroll around for a bit – two to three hours is enough to get a feel for the city.
A tip for visiting is the Chiesa di San Giovanni al Sepolcro, a round temple already mentioned in 1128. The temple was built by order of the Knights’ Order of the Regular Canons of the Holy Sepulchre.
Overnight: B&B Mare Nostrum. I stayed here during my Puglia road trip in a narrow street in the old town. I found it a lovely place with an authentic atmosphere and hospitable owner. Perfectly located to explore the city on foot.
Day 3: Brindisi, Cisternino, and Arrival in Fairytale Alberobello
Afternoon: Stop in Cisternino
From Ostuni/Brindisi, I drove via Cisternino towards Alberobello. This smaller town is perfect for a quick stop – a cappuccino on a terrace, a walk through the center. When I left Cisternino, I saw the setting sun spectacularly setting over several trulli. I stopped by the side of the road for a photo, not yet knowing what awaited me in Trullo City.
Evening: Alberobello in the Rain – Magical in the Dark
Unfortunately, it was already dark when I arrived in Alberobello, and it was raining too. Navigating to my booked trullo at Tipico Resort, I unfortunately stepped into a huge puddle. Wet feet, a phone that no longer responded to my fingerprint… looking around and being amazed by the many trulli, I still found my own trullo!
Despite the rain, I did go out that evening. Street after street full of trulli – those round, whitewashed houses with pointed roofs. That people lived like this! In Asia, it often happens that all my senses are on high alert; in Europe, less so. Here I was fully surprised, curious, eagerly taking in everything around me. Soaked but dreaming, I walked through this fairytale.
Back in my trullo, I turned on the heating, dried my clothes and socks by the heater, and took a warm shower. Fortunately, my trullo wasn’t authentically sparse – all modern conveniences were present.
Parking in Alberobello: Most trulli accommodations don’t have their own parking. There are several public parking lots just outside the center. In the off-season, this wasn’t a problem, but in July-August, this can be quite difficult.
Day 4: Alberobello in Daylight and the Magical Cave Cities of Matera
Morning: Alberobello Before the Crowds
Before 7:30 AM, I was already walking through the quiet streets. Only a single early tourist was already out. What a difference from the night before! In the morning light, I saw how unique each house was. Each roof different, each facade with its own character.
Downside: Many trulli are now Airbnbs or hotels. The village is overrun by tourism. Where we used to be rare as tourists, we’re now almost the majority in such places. The authenticity remains, but you share it with many.
High Season Warning: Around 10:00 AM, the first tour buses start arriving. In July and August, Alberobello is very busy between 10:00 AM-6:00 PM. Come early (before 8:00) or late (after 6:00 PM) for the best experience.
I found a perfect spot for a yoga photo. A passing woman took the photo – and suddenly started speaking Dutch! She had just looked at my travel stories online the night before and saw that I had been in Leuca. The world is sometimes so small.
Further along, I found an even better spot. Two Indian tourists now took my photo, and the man even joined in with the yoga pose. These are the moments that make a trip.
To Matera: A Different Puglia
I left Alberobello and drove towards Matera. On the way, I noticed something: here all the olive trees were green, full of life and olives. A sharp contrast with the area around Leuca, where I had just lived for a month before this visit. There, all the ancient olive trees were dead from a bacterium. They still stood as silent witnesses in a barren landscape. This part of Puglia was different: green, fertile, diverse in crops.
Did you know: The olive tree disease Xylella fastidiosa has killed millions of olive trees in Salento (the southernmost tip of Puglia) since 2013. In the region around Alberobello and Matera, you can fortunately still see healthy, centuries-old trees.
Stop: Castello Normanno-Svevo di Gioia del Colle
Between Alberobello and Matera, I stopped at Gioia del Colle and visited the castle museum. Really a recommendation! This medieval castle has a fantastic interactive museum and I was, to my surprise, the only visitor.
While I walked through the halls upstairs in the castle, all the videos and presentations automatically turned on. Each room told a different story from the history of the castle and the region.
The most impressive and poignant story I read in the cellar. Here the story was described of a woman who was locked up in the castle and separated from her child. In despair and protest, she cut off her own breasts – a gruesome but powerful story about motherly love and resistance against injustice. In memory of her, there are two ‘breasts’ visible in a stone on the wall.
Afternoon and Evening: Matera – Breathtaking from First Sight
After checking into my one-person apartment at Le Stanzette di Matera, I immediately went into the city. I had deliberately prepared little, I love the surprise that such a place gives me. Although I sometimes miss places because of that. That surprise and the effect it has on me makes everything worthwhile.
At a square, people stood close together at a viewpoint. That’s where I had to be. The wide view I got here overwhelmed me a bit. Thousands of houses in the valley, all the same sand color, mostly built against rock faces. Not round like the trulli, but square and blunt. The blue sky with a single white cloud hanging precisely above the church on the horizon gave me a truly perfect picture.
All afternoon I wandered through the valley. On the back side, I looked into the gorge where people were walking down, over a suspension bridge, up, to a viewpoint. I planned to go there the next morning.
I visited a cave dwelling from the inside. With a real kitchen, a large bed, a horse inside, and water storage in the back. In another room, I read about snow that was stored to keep food fresh. The meltwater was used in all kinds of ways. Fascinating.
The old main street through the valley, the high city walls, the viewpoint on the rock – with views of both the city and the gorge. Matera is truly a place you must see and experience when you’re in upper Puglia.
Geographically: Matera officially lies in the Basilicata region, not in Puglia. But it’s only an hour’s drive from Alberobello and absolutely worth including in this route.
Parking in Matera: There are several large parking lots around the Sassi (the historic center). Expect €1-2 per hour. The parking lot at Piazza Vittorio Veneto is closest to the center.
I parked at Parcheggio Piazza Cesare Firrao (covered parking garage) because this was closest to my apartment.
Day 5: Matera → Taranto (Optional) → Polignano a Mare → Bari
Morning: The Walk That Didn’t Happen
I ultimately decided not to go walking after all. I also wanted to see the city of Taranto on the other coast, and had booked my accommodation in Ostuni (practical for returning the rental car in Brindisi the next day). To not rush this day, I decided after a nice cappuccino and sweet pastry to start driving.
Taranto: Raw, Authentic, and Layered
An hour’s drive to Taranto. I drove endless circles looking for parking, ending up at the harbor. Over the island, to a parking lot (Park & Ride Taranto Democrate) that just opened that day, festive and all. €1 parking plus a free electric bus to the center.
The Centro Storico was absolutely worth visiting. Street art and posters showed an uprising against the regime, not so much political, but against the industry that pollutes and makes people sick but also brings money for many residents. Italians from another part of the country told me this background.
Upon arrival, I had already seen that the area was polluted, garbage not cleaned up. In the old town, lots of vacancy, poorly maintained buildings, narrow streets where music sounded from houses and a working-class mentality was palpable. They warned me that it wasn’t safe in the evening in some parts.
I visited a richly decorated Catholic church, the contrast with outside was enormous. Via the harbor, I walked back to my car.
Is Taranto Worth It? Taranto is different from typical Puglia pictures. It’s somewhat rougher, perhaps also feels more authentic, and is certainly less touristy. If you’re interested in the ‘real’ Italy and social contrasts, it’s fascinating.
Are you only looking for pretty towns and Instagram moments? Skip it during your road trip through Puglia and spend that extra time in Alberobello, Matero or Ostuni.
Afternoon: Polignano a Mare (Optional)
If you skip Taranto, you might have time for Polignano a Mare – a beautiful town on the rocks above the sea. Perfect for lunch with a view and a final walk through a typical Puglian village before driving back to Bari.
Back to Bari
Drive back to Bari (about 1-1.5 hours from Polignano a Mare), return the car at the airport, and fly back to the Netherlands. Or continue to your next destination like I did.
My Afternoon and Evening: Back to Ostuni
I went back to Ostuni this day because I returned the car in Brindisi. I wandered through the white streets and alleys again – you can’t get enough of that. An afternoon enjoying this beautiful town, now without haste. In the evening, the alleys were lit by warm lanterns. A wonderful farewell for me to this region of Italy – I had spent over a month in southern Italy.
Overnight: I stayed at Dama Bianca Boutique Hotel, a beautiful boutique hotel in the heart of the white town and at the edge of the centro storico. It was perfect for an evening walk through the lit streets.
Day 6: Closing – And On to Your Next Destination
The next morning, I returned the car to the rental company at Brindisi airport. You would then drive to Bari (1.5 hours) or have skipped Ostuni and already be in Bari. The rental company takes you to the airport for free.
My Next Route: To Naples by FlixBus
From Brindisi airport, I took the €2 bus to the city. From there, I walked to the bus stop (30 minutes walking) and took the FlixBus to Naples for the next part of my journey. The bus ride cost me €30 and took about 4.5 hours – much cheaper than renting a car in Brindisi and returning it in Naples (that would cost €100+ extra).
In Naples, I rented a car again for a few days (€20 for 4 days) to explore the Amalfi Coast. By picking up and returning cars at the same location, I kept costs low.
Your Options for Day 5:
Option 1: Fly Back from Bari Drive back to Bari (1 hour), return the car at the airport, and fly back. Note: you don’t pay one-way rental fees because you picked up the car at Brindisi airport, but you do need to calculate extra gas for the drive back to Bari.
Option 2: Continue to Other Destinations Like I did: FlixBus to Naples, Salerno, or other cities in Southern Italy. Ideal if you’re making a longer road trip through Italy.
Off-Season vs. High Season: What You Need to Know
I visited Puglia in November – the off-season. This meant a completely different experience than what you would have in summer:
Off-Season (September-November & April-May)
- ✅ Much fewer tourists (Alberobello almost empty in the morning)
- ✅ Lower accommodation prices (trulli from €60-80/night vs €150+ in summer)
- ✅ Easier parking (no stress, always a spot)
- ✅ Quieter restaurants (no reservation needed, better service)
- ✅ More authentic experience (more locals than tourists)
- ✅ Pleasant temperatures for sightseeing (18-25°C)
- ⚠️ Some beach bars and restaurants closed
- ⚠️ Shorter daylight (around 5:00-6:00 PM dark in November)
- ⚠️ Chance of rain (I had one rainy evening)
High Season (June-August)
- ❌ Alberobello, Ostuni, and Matera are very busy (tour buses, queues)
- ❌ Parking is a challenge (come before 9:00 or after 6:00 PM)
- ❌ Booking accommodations is essential (weeks in advance)
- ❌ Higher prices for everything (2-3x more expensive than off-season)
- ❌ Heat (30-38°C, sightseeing during the day exhausting)
- ❌ Restaurants full and rushed
- ✅ All facilities open
- ✅ Perfect beach weather
- ✅ Longer days (light until 8:30 PM)
- ✅ Lively nightlife
My Advice: If you’re mainly coming for culture, architecture, and authentic atmosphere (and not necessarily for the beach), choose April-May or September-October. You’ll still get wonderful weather but with a fraction of the crowds.
My Puglia Road Trip Advice: Make It 5 Days
This road trip was beautiful but actually a bit rushed. Make it at least 5 days if you can. Then you have more time in Alberobello and/or Matera – truly places that deserve more than a few hours. Then plan an extra day in Matera to do that walk through the gorge. Skip Taranto if you want more rest, or add a day if you also want to see the rough sides during your Puglia road trip.
Ideal 5-Day Route (Compact but Complete):
- Day 1: Arrival Bari, pick up car, explore city (overnight Bari)
- Day 2: Bari → Ostuni (overnight Ostuni)
- Day 3: Ostuni → Cisternino → Alberobello (overnight Alberobello)
- Day 4: Alberobello → Gioia del Colle → Matera (overnight Matera)
- Day 5: Matera → Taranto/Polignano a Mare → back to Bari, return car, fly back
The Ideal 6-Day Route (More Rest, with Brindisi):
- Day 1: Arrival Bari, pick up car, explore city (overnight Bari)
- Day 2: Bari → Ostuni (overnight Ostuni)
- Day 3: Ostuni → Brindisi (2-3 hours exploring) → Cisternino → Alberobello (overnight Alberobello)
- Day 4: Alberobello full day, including Locorotondo and Martina Franca (overnight Alberobello)
- Day 5: Alberobello → Gioia del Colle → Matera (overnight Matera)
- Day 6: Matera → Taranto/Polignano a Mare → back to Bari, return car, fly back
Ideal 7-Day Route (Extended, with Taranto and Extra Day in Matera):
- Day 1: Arrival Bari, pick up car, explore city (overnight Bari)
- Day 2: Bari → Ostuni (overnight Ostuni)
- Day 3: Ostuni → Brindisi (half day) → back to Ostuni or continue to Alberobello (overnight your choice)
- Day 4: Cisternino → Alberobello, including Locorotondo and Martina Franca (overnight Alberobello)
- Day 5: Alberobello → Gioia del Colle → Matera (overnight Matera)
- Day 6: Matera full day (walk through gorge, more cave dwellings) (overnight Matera)
- Day 7: Matera → Taranto/Polignano a Mare → back to Bari, return car, fly back
Puglia Road Trip Itinerary Cost Overview
This is approximately what this road trip in Puglia cost me (off-season prices):
Transportation:
- Flight to Bari (return): €75-150 (depending on when you book)
- Car rental (3 days): €18
- Gas: €35
- Parking (total): €23
Accommodation (4 nights):
- Brindisi (Mare Nostrum B&B): €45
- Ostuni (Dama Bianca Boutique Hotel): €60 (I was lucky with this price)
- Alberobello (Tipico Resort): €70
- Matera (Le Stanzette di Matera): €55
Food & Drinks:
- €25-40 per day (depending on your budget)
Total (indicative): €400-550 for 5 days, including flight ticket
Save Money:
- Fly off-season (saves €50-100 on flight)
- Eat lunch instead of dinner out (lunch menus often 40% cheaper)
- Return car at same location (saves €100+)
- Book accommodations early (especially trulli in Alberobello)
Frequently Asked Questions
- Is 4 days enough for Puglia? For this specific route, yes, but Puglia has much more to offer. With 4 days, you see the highlights; with 7-10 days, you can also discover the coast and more hidden spots.
- Why did you fly to Bari but rent the car in Brindisi? Simple: flights to Bari are cheaper and more frequent. By taking the train (€12) and picking up and returning the car at the same location (Brindisi), I saved €100+ on one-way rental. Plus: I got a day in Bari as a bonus!
- Is a day in Bari worth it? Absolutely! Bari Vecchia is beautiful, the food is fantastic, and the atmosphere is authentic. I wouldn’t recommend anyone to travel straight through without seeing Bari.
- Do I need an international driver’s license? No, a valid Dutch driver’s license is sufficient. A credit card in the name of the main driver is mandatory because you guarantee with it.
- Do people speak English in Puglia? In tourist spots (Alberobello, Ostuni, Matera), people speak basic English. In smaller villages and Taranto, mainly Italian. Google Translate is there for you.
Read Also
- Further south you’ll find beautiful Otranto
- Santa Maria di Leuca Travel Guide – End of the World
- Naples Travel Guide 2025: 27 Attractions