Discover the most varied section of the Camino Frances: from the plains of León to the mountains of Galicia. A complete guide with personal experiences, practical tips, and everything you need to know about kilometers 400-600.
Route Overview: From Meseta to the Mountains
In 2016, I walked from Saint Jean Pied de Port to Santiago de Compostela. The pilgrim feeling would never leave my memory after that. Since then, I’ve kept walking and wanted more of this in my life. So much so that I started organizing my own pilgrimage trips that you can join! But for now, I’m sharing my first journey with you. In this update, I take you from Sahagun to La Faba.
My last update ended on day 19… I still had some problems with my blisters… but I was back on the road alone.
This section of the Camino Frances (400-600km) is characterized by:
- Landscape transformation: From the flat Meseta to the green hills of León and Galicia
- Cultural diversity: From Castilian culture to Galician traditions
- Climate transition: From dry continental to humid oceanic climate
- Highlights: Cruz de Ferro (1504m), the symbol of letting go
- Historic cities: León with its Gothic cathedral, Astorga by Gaudí
I’m taking you along in this post from 400 km to 600 km, Camino Frances Part 3. From Sahagun to the tiny village of La Faba, just before I would climb to the highest point of the Camino at the village of O Cebreiro.
Why this section is so special
This part of the route marks an important transition. You leave the sometimes monotonous plains of the Meseta and enter the varied landscape of León and eventually Galicia. Here you experience the true diversity of Northern Spain.
So I’d been walking on the Camino Frances for about 3 weeks! Can you imagine that? Time flies by… when you’re walking on the Camino Frances. At least it didn’t feel that long at all. I could still see myself walking that first day in SJPD… Walking into my first albergue… What an amazing adventure it had been so far!
Daily Stages and Personal Experiences
Day 20: Sahagun to El Burgo Ranero 19 km
From Sahagun, I started walking with Jerry from Canada and Terry from Australia. Two really super nice guys and they had exactly my pace. I was totally happy with it. We took breaks now and then with a nice cup of coffee… I do love a cup of coffee, especially in the morning… They figured that out quickly and they were fine with it!
A nice cup of coffee with Terry (left) and Jerry (right)
We didn’t walk very far that first day and found a bed in the small village of El Burgo Ranero. My guidebook said there would be 250 inhabitants and 2 hostels. I really like those small villages! I was starting to notice that now, and Jerry especially wanted to stay in small places because he had a better chance of getting a bed.
In the beginning, he once had to sleep in a gym somewhere because there was no room, and that fear was still there a bit. We tried the private hostel but the owner was a bit strange, so we walked back to the municipal one.
Domenico Laffi… We paid 5 euros each… donation.
There were several restaurants across from our hostel and I had dinner with Jerry there. Terry had bought some bread and wine at the local tienda, shop. I took a nice walk through this small village and was treated to a beautiful sunset!
Sunset Camino Frances – El Burgo Ranero
Day 21: El Burgo Ranero to Mansilla de las Mulas 19km
Had a wonderful day walking on the Camino Frances and around midday we chose a nice little place, Mansilla de las Mulas. It’s really a very nice authentic Spanish village with nice streets and small shops. Not too many pilgrims but enough to enjoy the pilgrim meal together 🙂
Terry went to the municipal hostel and Jerry and I wanted a bit more luxury 🙂 A good shower and slightly better beds often. You might pay double… and that’s the consideration for Terry not to do it. The price then suddenly goes from 5 euros to 10 euros 🙂 This time we actually had to pay 7 euros. We had a lovely, warm, and neat shower. I had a small balcony where I could hang my laundry. The dormitory probably had about 20 beds. I was completely used to it and didn’t mind it at all.
You’re there to rest, eat, wash clothes, and sleep!
Statue of the modern pilgrim in Mansilla de las Mulas
Mansilla de las Mulas – Medieval charm
This city has a rich history dating back to Roman times. The name refers to “small houses of mules,” an indicator of its importance as a trading post.
Day 22: Mansilla de las Mulas to León 18km
We didn’t see Terry again that day, and when we continued the next morning, we didn’t think we’d see him again soon. The sun was starting to rise and I wanted to take a photo here, so I listened to the text STOP. And then suddenly Terry came walking out of the bus shelter!
How cool is that?
Together we continued walking on the pilgrim route Camino Frances. It was another wonderful day with a nice hill and therefore amazing views again! The road into the city of León is also fine to walk. We heard from many people that they didn’t find it beautiful and therefore took the bus… That’s not right! The lesser parts also belong there and you can’t skip them in normal life either. You go all the way or you don’t go… That was our opinion!
Route to León – Urban transition
The final stretch to León goes through industrial areas, less picturesque but historically important. This route follows old Roman roads and shows Spain’s modern development.
Why not take the bus: It says something about people who so easily and quickly take a bus and don’t walk the entire way. Skipping the lesser bits. That’s not right. Those parts also color you and belong there!
From left to right: Jerry, me and Terry
Day 23: Visiting León – Camino Frances
I had a rest day in León. Jerry also took a rest day and this was also the day we lost Terry. I didn’t see him again… I find that a shame. He was really a super nice guy with great humor! The city of León was wonderful. I fully enjoyed the food there. I wandered around wonderfully and tasted and saw everything 🙂
León – Jewel of Northern Spain
León was the capital of the kingdom of León from 910-1230 and played a crucial role in the Reconquista. The city magnificently combines medieval architecture with modern facilities.
Absolute must-sees in León:
- Cathedral of León: Masterpiece of Gothic architecture (13th century)
- San Isidoro Basilica: Romanesque jewel with royal tombs
- Hostal San Marcos: Former pilgrim hospital, now luxury hotel
- Barrio Húmedo: Historic district with best tapas
- Casa Botines: Gaudí building (only one in León)
Gastronomy León:
- Morcilla de León: Local black pudding
- Cecina: Dried beef, specialty
- Tapas rounds: Free tapas with every drink
- Local wines: Bierzo and Priorat
I also covered quite a few kilometers here in León, and when it was dark I was still walking around enjoying all the buildings, squares, and streets!
Day 24: León to Villar de Mazarife 21.7km
Jerry and I left León around 7:30 AM to go to Villar de Mazarife. It was wonderful to continue. The rest day was nice, but there’s a certain restlessness in your body that you want to walk again… That you’re not doing what you’re here for. I’d been walking on the Camino Frances for more than 3 weeks… This is just your daily rhythm, this is what you do… Just like your work… You just go and you don’t even have to think about it.
That’s what you do…
Pilgrim tips and tricks
This photo shows a well-known pilgrim trick: sanitary pads as moisture-absorbing insoles. Other handy tips:
Blister prevention on the road:
- The right socks: Smartwool or Falke are what I’m a fan of now
- Vaseline: On sensitive spots (100ml)
- Tape: Preventively on known problem areas
- Foot powder: Keeps feet dry
We ran into Lola and her friend again. They’re so fun and have so much fun together. We’ve been running into them for the last few days. It’s so nice how that goes along the way… one time you see some people a lot and then a completely different group. We’d had a rest day now, so we saw different pilgrims again!
And it was time to do a headstand again! It had been a long time and now I had Jerry with me to take a nice photo. I did fall over the bag once, but Jerry was sweet enough not to take a photo of that 🙂
In the background, you see Tio Pepe, the hostel we were staying at. The statue you see is next to the church. It was once again a very small village, 2 small shops and some cafés and then some hostels. I think if every hostel is full, there are more pilgrims here than there are residents 🙂
Day 25: Villar de Mazarife to Astorga 32km
My feet were starting to get really good again and I hadn’t walked this far in a long time. It felt really good and Jerry was up for it too!
The journey was wonderful, we passed many villages again and they were all amazing to see. Sometimes it’s like stepping straight into the Middle Ages, wonderful! Just sitting down and having a cup of coffee. Being part of the scene for a moment… Pilgrims of the Camino Frances pass you by… some you already know… some you don’t… Most say something… some are deep in thought…
This 13th-century bridge over the Órbigo River is one of the best-preserved medieval bridges in Europe. The name “Hospital” refers to the pilgrim hospital that used to stand here.
Historical significance:
- Construction period: 1286, during the reign of Alfonso X
- Length: 204 meters, 20 arches
- Legend: Don Suero de Quiñones’ tournament (1434)
- Strategic importance: Important crossing point to Santiago
In the middle of the bridge stood a whole group of tourists… and when we walked past them, they were still there. They were getting an explanation about the background of this bridge. When we walked past, they recognized us as pilgrims, of course, and the whole group started clapping and cheering us on! What a wonderful moment!
We both raised our hands and poles high and walked through them with broad smiles!
Then came a tough bit.
It was getting warm… it was a bit longer than expected… But we still had some food and on top of the mountain, we had our lunch. I still had some bread and olives. I had small cans of olives with me throughout the entire Camino Frances. So handy and so delicious!
Nutrition on the road – Pilgrim meals
Energy-rich snacks for long days:
- Nuts and raisins: Quick energy
- Bananas: Potassium against cramps
- Olives: Replenish salts (as I did!)
- Energy bars: For emergencies
- Local fruit: Seasonal options
A bit more walking and we were there! I was starting to feel better and better and my feet were almost healed. My pace was starting to increase again and that made me happy!
In case you don’t know what the dormitory looks like 🙂
That evening I cooked for the first time in a long time. I cooked pasta for Jerry and me. I had cooked so much that we could also share some. James was there and he also ate wonderfully with us. We’d been seeing him for a few days already and he’d also done 32 km today! An Italian and a German could also eat with us and then it was gone. Super fun!
Day 26: Astorga to Rabanal del Camino 20 km
The day started wonderfully again!
I was walking like a young girl again 🙂 I felt no more pain and I could have kept walking but for Jerry it was enough in Rabanal del Camino. And the village was also a super place to stay overnight.
Route to Rabanal – Climbing into the mountains
This stage marks the beginning of the climb to the Montes de León. You rise from 869m in Astorga to 1150m in Rabanal.
Route characteristics:
- Elevation gain: +281 meters
- Landscape: Transition from plain to hills
- Vegetation: More trees, cooler temperatures
- Villages along the way: Murias de Rechivaldo, Santa Catalina
Just before the village were 2 hostels and that’s where we checked in. In the early evening a man came by who gave massages on the grass field across the street. That was really wonderful and good for my calves! And before and after the massage, I could also enjoy the sun on the grass, as if I was at a campsite for a moment 🙂
The laundry could also hang there well and there was plenty of space for washing and hanging for everyone. At some point, James came walking by again and he also stopped here.
How nice!
This was the first day that I started seeing insects, butterflies, and flowers again!
I even took the time to go to church this day. I’d heard that this was a unique church and service to go to. Only in my Camino Frances Part 3 did I take time for it. I hadn’t done that yet and thought that was also good.
Rabanal del Camino – Spiritual center
This historic village was an important pilgrimage point in the Middle Ages, maintained by the Templars.
Spiritual aspects:
- Gregorian chant: Evening services in Santa María church
- Templar history: 12th-century tradition
- Contemplation: Quiet mountain environment
- Community: International pilgrim community
I heard there would be chanting. And they did, but there were only a few priests and then it’s less impressive than if there were 15 priests sitting there, of course. But the church was really cool to see.
Day 27: Rabanal del Camino to Ponferrada 35 km
Highlights: Cruz de Ferro, long mountain descents, Ponferrada castle
When we left Rabanal del Camino and I looked back for a moment, we were treated to this beautiful picture! Isn’t that amazing?
This was the day we would go to Cruz de Ferro. It’s an important point for many pilgrims on the Camino Frances. It’s a cross along the path at an altitude of 1531 meters. We still had to climb 400 meters that morning from Rabanal del Camino.
Cruz de Ferro – The symbol of letting go
Cruz de Ferro (Iron Cross) stands at 1504 meters altitude and is one of the most emotional moments of the Camino.
Historical background:
- Origin: Pre-Christian tradition
- Symbol: Letting go of burdens
- Height: 1504 meters above sea level
- Tradition: Lay down a stone from your homeland
I thought it was amazing and the views were once again super!
Lola and her friend walked with us. We’d been seeing them for a few days now every time. Every time Lola saw animals, she had to stop and give them attention. I also found that nice and just took the time to take a photo 🙂
Jerry was getting used to it by now!
And then we arrived at Cruz de Ferro. Most pilgrims lay down a stone or something they’ve been carrying for a while. This is to leave the burdens they have here, psychologically an important moment for many.
A few days earlier, on the advice of a former colleague, I had picked up a stone. Still, I wanted to lay something down… Not that I had anything in mind to leave behind, no part I wanted to say goodbye to… I was here at this moment to enjoy everything and I was doing that fully with everything that came my way…
And I laid down the stone I had picked up earlier…
What the stone symbolizes:
- Liberation: Letting go of the past
- Personal burdens: Worries, fears, grief
- Transformation: Symbol of change
- Connection: With thousands of other pilgrims
When I walked back down and wanted to grab my backpack and poles… then I saw that only my backpack was still there. The poles were gone. After looking around for a while, I saw a pair of poles that looked like mine but really weren’t. I got the suspicion that the owner of those had taken mine, so I took those poles with me.
Jerry thought it was funny. A cop now walking with someone else’s poles. I didn’t know for sure if these were the poles of the person who had my poles… I did have that conviction 🙂
At some point, I think after half an hour of walking, I saw 3 ladies standing in the middle of the path in the distance. They were in discussion with each other and I saw that one of them was holding poles out in front of her and pointing at them.
I KNEW IT RIGHT AWAY.
Those were my poles!
With a smile, we both exchanged our poles again 🙂
I was walking wonderfully, it was as if I had just started walking. I was almost flying over the Camino Frances and after a coffee break, I left Jerry behind me. He was starting to get blisters and wasn’t able to keep up with me, downhill. I still remembered… that was actually the hardest!
Tips for long descents:
- Pace: Slower than your feeling tells you
- Shoes: Tie tightly to prevent blisters
- Breaks: Rest regularly
- Poles: Indispensable for knees
I really wanted to go to Ponferrada and that was still quite a walk. In the end, I made it but it was a super long day and I was very happy I’d done it. I was walking alone again on the Camino Frances. That also felt good even though I’d had a great time with Jerry! What a super nice guy!
But in the end… You have to walk your own Camino and it felt good this way!
Ponferrada – Templar city
Ponferrada owes its name to the iron bridge (“Pons Ferrata”) that the Templars built here.
Sights:
- Templar Castle: 12th century, beautifully preserved
- Basilica Encina: Patron saint of Bierzo
- Museum del Bierzo: Local history
- Casco Antiguo: Medieval city center
Day 28: Ponferrada to Villafranca del Bierzo 24.7 km
That day I started early, around 7 AM. I woke up early because of a Brazilian family in my room. It was still dark when I walked through the neighborhoods of the city and I saw Graham walking in front of me. Really nice friendly guy from England but he’d been living in Shanghai for a while. I’d seen him for the first and last time in Sahagun… We walked together for a while and had a nice conversation about everything.
When I wanted a cup of coffee around 8:30 AM, he wanted to keep walking, but after a few km I saw him walking in front of me again 🙂
I was walking at a good pace again and it felt wonderful! I walked into a town with Graham, Villafranca, and he talked about a really nice hippie hostel where he wanted to stay. It was immediately the first hostel and it looked nice so I stayed too. I cooled my feet for a bit and then someone from the hostel immediately came to give me salt and vinegar.
Foot care on the road – Professional tips
Salt and vinegar treatment:
- Alternative: Medical foot cream
- Effect: Hardens skin, prevents blisters
- Application: Soak feet 10-15 minutes
- Frequency: Daily after long stages
Did you know that salt and vinegar harden the calluses and are therefore very good for pilgrims?
Of course, I went into the city and walked around a bit. I ran into other pilgrims on terraces again and that’s such a nice feeling! You’re walking in a city that’s foreign to you but you run into all kinds of people you know 🙂
Villafranca del Bierzo – Gateway to Galicia
This beautiful town is also called “little Santiago” because of its many churches.
Sights:
- Iglesia de Santiago: With “Puerta del Perdón”
- Castle: 15th-century ducal castle
- Collegiate church: Santa María del Cruero
- Historic center: Well preserved
Puerta del Perdón (Door of Forgiveness): Sick pilgrims who couldn’t continue from here received full indulgence, the same as reaching Santiago.
Day 29: Villafranca del Bierzo to La Faba 25 km
When you leave Villafranca, you have two options.
Two route options:
- Mountain route: Via Pradela (original Camino)
- Distance: 25km
- Elevation gain: +600m climb
- Advantages: Beautiful views, authentic
- Disadvantages: Harder, weather dependent
- Highway route: Via Trabadelo
- Distance: 23km
- Elevation gain: +300m climb
- Advantages: Easier, more services
- Disadvantages: Less scenic
You walk along the highway for a while or go over the mountain. You can probably guess which option I chose 🙂 I love beautiful views so you have to go up!
This is also the first day of the pilgrimage trip I now offer
Graham said no unfortunately… So I continued alone. It was quite cold in the morning but it was also quite a climb. So I was so warm and could take off my jacket again. The sun came up when I was at the top and the city lay in a dark valley.
Climate transition – From dry to wet
As you climb higher and approach Galicia, the climate changes dramatically.
Weather changes:
- Temperature: Cooler, more variation
- Precipitation: More frequent, more unpredictable
- Humidity: Significantly higher
- Wind: Stronger on mountain tops
Such a cool view far across this landscape!
When I walked further, I ran into Maureen. She also walked the alternative routes! #respect I’d already met her once and talked to her briefly and walked on. A few km further I had a wonderful cup of coffee at a roadside restaurant and she came to sit with me. From now on I would see Maureen every day!
She walked the entire Camino Frances with two friends, but they walked faster. So every morning they would part ways and agree on where they would sleep.
Pilgrim strategies – Group vs Solo
Advantages of group travel:
- Safety: Support with problems
- Company: Sharing experiences
- Costs: Sometimes cheaper accommodation
- Motivation: Encouraging each other
Advantages of solo travel:
- Pace: Determine your own rhythm
- Flexibility: Choose your own route and stops
- Inner journey: More reflection time
- Spontaneous encounters: More open to new contacts
La Faba – Galician village experience
This small mountain village marks your official entry into Galicia. La Faba is halfway up the mountain and I thought it was good for the day. It was in a very small village but I’d secured a bed in a really nice eco hostel. I felt like relaxing and enjoying the surroundings. When I walked through the village, Dino invited me to come with him. He couldn’t speak a word of English… and I still couldn’t speak Spanish… but we managed.
He showed me where his cows were. Under his house in the stable.
It was a bit dark for a good photo but you can see Dino sweeping something aside and the cow on the other side is also amazing, right? More to the left, behind the hay, were 2 more pigs to be found!
We had entered the state of Galicia and everything was getting a bit fresher and also poorer. In many places, it seemed as if time had stood still. It’s amazing to see…
Typical Galician elements:
- Hórreos: Traditional grain barns on stilts
- Megaliths: Prehistoric monuments
- Celtic influences: Music and traditions
- Seafood: Even in the mountains, fish available
Can you imagine walking 600 km?
Reflection: 29 days on the Camino Frances
I’d been on the road for 29 days on the Camino Frances by now… what an amazing experience so far!! I would walk for 6 more days before completing the Camino. They were wonderful days and I’d enjoyed every minute so far! If I could, I would do it again in a heartbeat! And again!
Why this section is so transformative
This part of the Camino Frances (400-600km) is unique because it marks multiple transitions:
- Geographic transition: From the flat, sometimes monotonous Meseta to the green, varied mountain landscapes of León and Galicia.
- Cultural transition: From Castilian to Galician culture, with visible differences in architecture, language, and traditions.
- Personal transition: After 3 weeks of walking, you’ve become a true pilgrim. Your body is adapted, your mind is calmer, and you’re part of the Camino community.
- Spiritual transition: Cruz de Ferro marks for many the moment of letting go – symbolically and literally. It’s a turning point in the inner journey.
Lessons learned
- The importance of flexibility: Plans are good, but the Camino teaches you to be open to unexpected encounters and experiences.
- Simplicity in possessions: With only the necessities in your backpack, you experience the freedom of minimal possessions.
- Community on the road: The Camino family you form along the way is unique – international friendships based on shared experiences.
- Respect your own process: But in the end… You have to walk your own Camino and it felt good this way!
Next steps: The final stretch
Want to walk a camino but not sure where to start?
- Join me for the last 200 km to Santiago
- Or walk me from Santiago to Finisterre / Muxia
Want to read more about this adventure?
- First 200 km of the Camino Frances
- From 200 km to 400 km – Camino Frances
- My Goal Achieved! Santiago de Compostela – Spain
Check out my tips!
