Hiking in Spain from Palamos to Begur – Hiking along the Costa Brava coast: GR92
|Hiking along the Costa Brava coast in Spain embodies a unique challenge we cannot experience in the Netherlands, thanks to its imposing mountains and rugged coastline. Hiking in Spain enchants you with its dramatic contrasts: as you make your way through the vast mountain trails, you descend to breathtaking bays and rocky cliffs that defy the force of the sea. The mountains offer a constantly changing landscape, constantly rewarding you with extraordinary panoramas, while the rugged coastline enchants you with its wild and untouched beauty.
It is an adventure that feeds your soul, stimulates your senses and takes you on an unforgettable journey through a natural splendour that surprises you time and again.
Hiking along the Costa Brava kust
This day again brought me challenges in all areas. But first I started with a nice breakfast at my hotel and then left to tackle another adventurous day of hiking in Spain on the Costa Brava (GR92). Today I walked from Palamos to Begur. A town slightly off the rugged coast and with a somewhat higher elevation in the mountains. I had been to this ancient town years ago and so I already knew a bit about what to expect. In terms of walking, I didn’t yet know what to expect … this stage gave me quite a challenge today.
Walking in Spain from Palamos to Begur
Hiking along the Costa Brava coast: GR92
I walked out of Palamos, right through the town centre to find myself hiking along the Costa Brava coast again on the other side, in a beautiful park. I thought it was a beautiful park and a nice start to the day. Shortly after, I came to a very small stone beach with the explanation that people used to enjoy lovely picnics here when it was cold. The sun came into this little bay in the morning and people enjoyed it to the fullest. Even as I walked there, the sun was shining nicely and I sat for a while enjoying this beautiful spot!
After this, I continued walking close to the coast, crossing beautiful paths and stairs, and the most beautiful views again of the beautiful Costa Brava coast. The weather was lovely and I was again thoroughly enjoying myself. The coastal route was quiet compared to the day before. It was Monday and most people were obviously back at work. Also nice for me again. Not that I found it too busy yesterday, on the contrary, it was nice to see the local people enjoying their beautiful coastline and the paths along it.
Hiking in Spain from Palamos to Begur
After the beach Platja de la Fosca, I passed a ruin of an old strategically placed fort. It was not accessible but it captured my imagination. What beautiful places they used to choose. Strategically good places and, for that very reason, with the most beautiful views.
Best Spot of the Day: Cala s’Alguer
After a while, I found myself walking in a nature reserve again. I saw a bench in front of me and a woman sitting on the ground a bit in front of it. This naturally drew my attention and as I got closer I understood her chosen spot. She had the view of a super beautiful and finely coloured little bay. There were a number of ‘cottages’ lined up and they all had beautiful colours. The whole thing gave a super idyllic picture! This beautiful place is called Cala s’Alguer and a famous spot on this stage of the GR92.
The beautiful rough coast of Spain – Costa Brava
I sat down next to her and dreamed away for a moment at the sight of Cala s’Alguer.
You can find the beautiful bay Cala s’Alguer at GPS
When I continued walking later, I saw that you could walk through it. The path runs along the top but of course you can descend and take a closer look at the little bay. There were no people, only one cottage had its door open and I saw some dogs lying there. Otherwise it was deserted.
After this short visit I walked on, I had to take fewer breaks, I promised myself, but I didn’t really succeed. Shortly after, I came to a perfect little beach to take a break. Sitting in the sun, I ate something and enjoyed the sight of the other people on the beach. Some were swimming, some were picnicking and some children playing completed the picture. ( not to mention the naked old man in the corner of the beach who was bathing delightfully in the edge of the sea )
After this break, I really just had to start making miles. After all, the day was longer than most days and there would be an ascent at the end. So after this wonderfully relaxing morning, I continued with the idea of making a few fewer stops.
After a beautiful walk through nature, I arrived in a village around 1 pm where I decided to have lunch anyway. Didn’t linger long but did just take off the shoes again, drying my feet in the warmth of the sun and refuel.
Hiking along the Costa Brava Coast
After this also came the most challenging part of the day. Hiking along the Spanish Costa Brava coast can really give you some good challenges. I would go up several more times before descending to the most beautiful bays. In those coves, there was then no way out other than going straight up steeply again before descending again. Beautiful, but I was glad I had eaten. Otherwise this would have been even harder. The paths were beautiful but sometimes really steep. Keeping your mind and concentration was certainly important here.
Not everywhere the path was equally well marked. Somewhere I ran into a fence where I could not continue. Turned out that just before that I had had to make a descent that I thought was irresponsible. When I did take it on, fortunately it wasn’t too bad but I came to walk across a rocky bay. Huge stones/rocks over which I stumbled fortunately reached the other side and there really did see the flag again. Very surprised at the route which suddenly looked very messy and devastated. A great place to walk but the path was no longer there…only the occasional clue….
The Costa Brava lives up to its name of rough coast
A little while later, when I got another nice view of the rugged coast, I suddenly saw that a place was approaching. Just before I reached this place, I had to brave the sea. I was already on the later side and just like a few days ago, the sea gets a bit higher by then and you get chances of wet feet.
Quickly I took a few big steps after taking a quick look at how the waves were going but alas. Still, I sank just a little further into the sand, going slower than hoped and a wave of water got into my shoe.
Fast forward across the beach and at the first bench I sat down. And quickly took off that shoe and saved what could be saved. I really hate wet feet/socks/shoes…. It wasn’t too bad… The back of my heel and sock was wet but the shoe itself was not. Always pulled them on tight and therefore not much water got in. I dried the inside of the shoe with my quick-drying towel and replaced the socks with another pair.
I was in Tamariu and after this I would only go up to Begur. It would take another hour of walking, so there was a chance it would be dark on the way. So I set a brisk pace and headed into the final stretch in good spirits. First along the main road but soon into a forest. With poles and walking briskly I went up quite fast, I was completely out of breath but kept up the pace. I didn’t want to walk in the forest during sunset. The forest was beautiful and I got some really nice views but I didn’t take time to take many photos.
Hiking along the Costa Brava coast on the GR92…
It will take you inlands too..
Halfway through I ate a Snickers, very glad I still had one. My energy had run out! I ate and walked… you don’t really want to know what that looks like and the noise that comes with it. I was using all my energy to walk upstairs and get out of the forest before dark. So eating with my mouth open to get in as much oxygen as possible. No .. not charming and fortunately I didn’t run into anyone to witness that.
Once I reached the top and got outside the forest, I was left with a stretch along the provincial road to the town of Begur. The sun was already setting and I was enjoying the fact that I had covered this day so well. How glad I was that I was almost there. I was also really done with it but enjoyed the fact that I had just managed to do it again. It was starting to get chilly, the sun was setting and showing me amazing colours and I had my end goal in sight. What more could a person want?
I had been given a code on my phone to get into my accommodation. After getting inside, I looked for my room on the second floor. It was a great house and ditto room! How lovely then to throw off your shoes, open the bag and grab clean clothes and get under a hot shower. Nice music on my phone and feeling super happy.
Everything about this day
hiking along the Costa Brava coast
Distance, height and duration – Palamos to Begur
This day of hiking along the Costa Brava coast brought me 23.01 km of distance. In the process, I ascended 1264 metres and descended 1091. In total, it took me quite a long time, especially because, of course, I took a break at several coves. I arrived in Begur around 1800 hours.
Lunch on the way?
The place where I ate is called Calella de Palagrugell. A perfect place to eat, really midway through the day and before the most violent ups and downs of the day come. In this town, and on the map there seems to be another town right after it called Llafranc, there are several restaurants on the beautiful coastline. Here you can sit on the terrace in the sun for a while.
Stay in Begur
Cluc Hotel Begur – I paid 63 euro for the night
In Begur, I had once again found a great place to stay. It was in a small street in the old centre where I had a spacious room in an old building on the second floor. That following morning, a local breakfast was served in the basement. I say local because most of the products there were from the area and the man helping us really emphasised this. So this was a good choice!
Do you share this fine inspiration for hiking along the Costa Brava coast?
Or will you be hiking the GR92 yourself soon? If so, save this post!
Do also read about day 1, day 2 en day 3 of my adventurous hike along the Costa Brava coast of Spain.
Want to read some more about adventurous hiking?
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And what about hiking on Majorca?
Hiking the Serra Tramuntana on Majorca – The long distance hike GR221 on Majorca – Spain
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