Hiking the Fishermen’s Trail in Portugal is one of the most rewarding long-distance walks you can do in Europe. 226.5 kilometres along rugged cliffs, deserted beaches and small fishing villages on the Atlantic coast of Portugal. I walked a large part of the route solo, and returned for a few more stages later as preparation for the guided trips I now organise here. What you’re reading is not a travel guide — it’s an honest account of what it feels like to walk along the ocean, day after day.
What is the Fishermen’s Trail?
The Fishermen’s Trail (Portuguese: Trilho dos Pescadores) is a long-distance hiking route along the southwestern coast of Portugal. The route starts in São Torpes and ends 226.5 kilometres later in Lagos. There are 13 stages in total, averaging 15 to 22 kilometres per day.
The trail is part of the Rota Vicentina, a larger hiking network in southwestern Portugal. The other main route within that network is the Historical Way, which runs more inland. The two routes cross regularly — sometimes you find yourself on the Historical Way without noticing.
After three days of walking the Historical Way through the interior of Portugal, I started the Fishermen’s Trail. Finally — hiking along the Atlantic Ocean.
Stage 2 – Porto Covo to Vila Nova de Milfontes (20 km)
My walk started at the MUTE hostel in Porto Covo after a good breakfast. I retraced my steps to the point where I’d been following the Historical Way signs and switched direction — I had joined the Fishermen’s Trail just south of Porto Covo. The official start of this stage is at the tourist office, just before a small beach crossing.
Early on, you walk along the beach in front of Ilha do Pessegueiro — a small island with a fort on it. I’d spotted it the day before and wondered how close you’d get. Not very close, as it turns out, but a fort on an unreachable island does spark the imagination.
After that, the trail briefly sent me inland — even briefly in the wrong direction — before quickly correcting itself. The path here was slightly firmer than the rest, which was welcome. Back towards the coast, I walked a section on wooden boardwalks. I always enjoy that. This stretch runs between two large car parks, and I passed campervans from all corners of Europe along the way.
From there, I walked high above the coast, with drops of up to 100 metres to my right. Not the place to wander off in a daydream while taking photos. I walked with poles and kept a steady pace through the soft sand. My knee, which had been bothering me for a few days, held up fine. I still overtook a couple along the way, and the woman complimented me on my pace. I was carrying around 10 kilos; she was carrying perhaps five or six.
On a rock with a natural hollow, I stopped to rest. I could lean my pack against it and properly relax. Shortly after, an Indian man and a British hiker passed by. They complimented me on my spot and walked on.
The Indian man had left the MUTE hostel alone that morning and had met the Brit along the way. I encounter people too, but I’m slower to get talking. A brief chat here and there is fine — but it remains my journey.
You learn from others, and you learn from yourself. Solo travel has taught me more about myself than anything else. I’m now working towards trips I’ll make with others. In the future, I’ll be travelling less alone. The path I’ve walked has given me exactly what I needed. How good it is to realise that.
Lost in thought, I still missed two trail markers and nearly ended up heading inland. As soon as I noticed, I turned back and found the path again.
Around two in the afternoon, I walked into Vila Nova de Milfontes. What a hotel for 40 euros — lunch included, and a private outdoor bath on my terrace. After washing some clothes and showering, I explored the village.
The Mira river separates the village from the rest of the coast. That evening I sat on the raised terrace of the hotel, writing this. Life is good.
Where to stay in Vila Nova de Milfontes? I stayed at HS Milfontes Beach — great value for the money. If you want a better chance of meeting fellow hikers, also check out MUTE Hostel Milfontes.
Stage 3 – Vila Nova de Milfontes to Almograve (15.5 km)
After a good breakfast at the hotel, I set off in light sunshine and fresh temperatures. From the village centre, just before the roundabout, I took a path down towards the bridge over the Mira river. There’s also a small ferry, but it probably only runs in summer — I didn’t see it during my days there.
Crossing the bridge gave me a lovely view of both the river and the Atlantic Ocean. Then a stretch through a small nature area — heathland, followed by a few abandoned buildings covered in beautiful murals.
For part of this stage I walked alongside a German woman who moved at a slower pace. I didn’t see her again after that — but that’s how it works on the Fishermen’s Trail. You keep running into the same people at different moments of the day.
The path then followed the river to the spot where the ferry would normally dock, before turning back towards the coast. First meadows and vegetated dunes, then gradually softer sand and lower scrub.
It took a long time before I was walking along the Atlantic again. Some sections felt like pushing through a bamboo jungle — great fun, but sometimes so overgrown you had to duck to get through. When I caught up with the Indian man and the Brit again, it turned out their packs had been snagged in the undergrowth several times.
Once back along the coast, the trail opened up beautifully. I photographed the hippocrepis comosa (thanks, Google Lens) and the ice plant growing along the path.
Just before Almograve, the rain came down. I was already sitting dry inside a small local café eating a toasted sandwich. One by one, the others filed in: the Indian man and the Brit, the Frenchman I’d known since the Historical Way, a young woman I hadn’t seen before, and finally the Swiss couple.
Where to stay in Almograve? I stayed at the youth hostel (HI Almograve) but wouldn’t recommend it. A better option is Casa das Dunas, or browse other accommodation in Almograve.
Stage 4 – Almograve to Zambujeira do Mar (22 km)
After a simple breakfast at the youth hostel, I headed out. You can loop around the village, but I walked straight through — saving about 15 minutes, and I’d already seen that part the day before. Straight to the coast via a long, wide track.
It took a while before the beautiful sandy paths with coastal views began. You slow down immediately on them, but that’s fine. At a nice spot I pulled out my selfie stick and took a photo to show what it’s like to walk here. Shortly after, the Brit and the Indian man passed by. I let them go ahead and stopped for some yoga along the way — my lower back was stiff from the pack. And since I was already at it: a quick headstand.
After a stretch along the coast, I suddenly found myself in a forest. No wide views anymore, and the sound of the ocean disappears just like that. Strange, but also somehow special.
In a small village I wanted to stop for coffee, but the terrace was full of Asian men. I guessed they were Nepali — and I was right. Portugal doesn’t have enough people for all the work available, which draws a lot of Nepalis and Bangladeshis. Over 200,000 Nepalis now live in Portugal. I walked on and ate my sandwich on a bench in the sun.
The trail then led me back towards the coast. A fairly monotonous stretch along the shoreline, with occasional glimpses of the ocean. Only at the end — past a small fishing settlement and a long straight road — did the beautiful paths return. Stunning views of an unreachable little beach in the sunshine.
Hiking along the Atlantic Ocean – Portugal
In Zambujeira do Mar I had lunch: five small mackerel. Delicious, but I always make a mess of them, never really learned how to clean and eat them. But those potatoes — so simple and so good.
Fishermen’s Trail in Portugal
Where to stay in Zambujeira do Mar? I stayed at Sol Dourado, a lovely house with spacious rooms and a friendly owner who also runs a restaurant in the village. More options: Zambujeira do Mar.
Stage 5 – Zambujeira do Mar to Odeceixe (18.5 km)
I left without coffee — nothing was open in the centre. I later heard from the others that there had been somewhere open in a different street. That’s how it goes…
The weather was excellent. After a steep descent and a solid climb, I was warm enough to shed my jacket and fleece. Walking in a T-shirt in December — wonderful. The path went partly through a forest and for a long stretch alongside a fence with horses and alpacas, before returning to a beautiful section along the Atlantic. The views and the cliff edges remain impressive throughout.
After an hour and a half I stopped for a break along the route, looking out over the ocean. I did some yoga and sat for a while on my flip-flops. (There are almost no benches on the Fishermen’s Trail — bring something to sit on.) One by one the others passed: first the Brit and the Indian man, then the German woman. I walked with her for a while until she stopped to join the others for a rest. I kept going.
At some point, storks were perched on rocks just off the coast. Wonderful to watch them land — legs straight down, navigating into the wind, settling precisely on the nest. While I stood watching, the group caught up with me again.
In the village with my lunch I did see the fellow hikers again. You always meet eachother during the day, I really like that.
The final stretch took me over high cliffs to the coast of Odeceixe — a white village high up on the opposite cliff, a beach below and a river heading inland. Then four more kilometres along that river into the village of Odeceixe itself. Honestly: a tarmac road at the end of the day like that is really not pleasant.
Hiking along the Atlantic Ocean – Safe and Healthy Travel
That evening I walked up to the old windmill above the village at sunset. Little lights were strung around it — I hoped they’d come on. They didn’t. We had pizza as a group of four. The Frenchman was there too, the one I’d been crossing paths with since the beginning. He camps, always keeps his distance, and never gets involved. Even worse than me in that regard.
After this stage I skipped nearly two because of rain and a stretch with a less appealing reputation. The German woman had already decided to take a bus or taxi further south — I joined her. The stages further south were the ones I really wanted to walk.
Where to stay in Odeceixe? I had a wonderful spot: Bohemian Antique Guesthouse, with a loft bed and a really lovely bathroom. More options: Odeceixe.
Stage 7 – Aljezur to Arrifana (17.5 km)
In October 2024 I returned to the Fishermen’s Trail to walk this stage — as preparation for the guided trips I now organise here. I started early from a hostel in Aljezur, made my own coffee and was walking by eight.
First a descent, then a solid climb. I walked through a beautiful rolling landscape with cork oaks and farms, with the Atlantic in the background. Then came a stretch of over 40 minutes on tarmac. Not my favourite, but the trail also connects here to the Historical Way if you prefer — which is 3 km shorter. Next time I want to compare.
At Praia da Amoreira there were plenty of surfers; I ate my banana on a bench overlooking the beach. I then alternated between sand and road. Fishermen stood at the water’s edge, hikers passed by, the occasional cyclist or car. The sun shone straight into my face.
I realised this is now my work — and that thought stayed with me for a while. I stopped working as a police officer in aug ’24
At Praia de Monte Clérigo I sat on a terrace for €5.50: a galão and a toasted cheese sandwich. Slightly bigger slices of bread than back home. That was more than enough for a while.
Walking on, I stayed close to the coast — sometimes perhaps too close. I passed a few ruins with no explanation, but plenty of photogenic edges. Then a meditation break on a patch of sand: mat down, shoes off, just sitting. I want to do that more often. But you know how it goes — the days fly by.
The last stretch ran through a more wooded area, a completely different atmosphere from the coast. Just before Praia da Arrifana I descended through a kind of valley, and suddenly I was there. I ordered sweet potato soup at Cal Arrifana — a wonderful terrace high above the beach, dozens of surfers in the water.
Where to stay near Arrifana? I stayed at Casa Nook, a lovely place with a pool, though the room doesn’t have its own bathroom. For more comfort right on the coast, try Falésias da Arrifana. When I lead my guided Fishermen’s Trail trip, I stay at Utopia.
Stage 8 – Arrifana to Carrapateira (21 km)
Since I kept going in 2024, I’m including this stage here too.
From Arrifana I walked back to the point where I’d left the route the day before — a junction with a sculpture at the top of the hill above Praia da Arrifana. About 1.5 km from the guesthouse.
First along the road, then up the hill on gravel tracks. The first part of this stage follows the Historical Way — there’s no coastal option here, and unfortunately that’s not made very clear on the ground.
It’s still a fine route. I descended to a small beach, ate my banana, climbed back up. Gradually I moved inland. Around eleven I reached restaurant 44 — a toasted cheese sandwich and a galão on a sunny terrace. That’s all I need at that moment.
Tip: This is the only restaurant you’ll see on this route so use it for lunch and a bathroom visit
Then back onto the Fishermen’s Trail at the next junction. The final coastal stretch was familiar from last time. Long straight paths to the coast, then that marker under the tree hung with trail flags — I tried to get a proper photo of it this time.
One more climb, then down to the beach. I decided to stop: shoes off, feet in the water. The waves were wild and my shorts got wet. After drying off for a while, I continued inland along the dune ridge.
The last stretch through loose sand instead of on tarmac — much better.
Where to stay in Carrapateira? I stayed at Carrapateira Lodge. Nearby is also Casa Luminoso — both are good options.
All 13 Stages of the Fishermen’s Trail
To give you a clear picture of the full route, here are all the stages:
- São Torpes – Porto Covo — 10 km
- Porto Covo – Vila Nova de Milfontes — 20 km
- Vila Nova de Milfontes – Almograve — 15.5 km
- Almograve – Zambujeira do Mar — 22 km
- Zambujeira do Mar – Odeceixe — 22.5 km
- Odeceixe – Aljezur — 22.5 km
- Aljezur – Arrifana — 17.5 km
- Arrifana – Carrapateira — 21 km
- Carrapateira – Vila do Bispo — 16 km
- Vila do Bispo – Sagres — 20.5 km
- Sagres – Salema — 19.5 km
- Salema – Luz — 12 km
- Luz – Lagos — 11 km
The first and last stages are the shortest. The longest are around 22 kilometres. Don’t underestimate the effort — a lot of soft sand, regular climbs, and occasional tarmac stretches. All of that takes more out of you than the distance alone suggests.
Getting there
Fly into Lisbon. From there, take the bus to Sines (around 3 hours). From Sines, take a taxi or Uber to the official starting point at São Torpes — about 10 to 15 minutes. Many hikers start at Porto Covo (stage 2), as São Torpes is poorly served by public transport. The end point, Lagos, is easily reached by train from Faro or by bus from various places in Portugal.
When to go
The best time is March through May or September through October. Temperatures are pleasant, the landscape is in bloom and most accommodation is open. July and August are too hot — there is almost no shade on the trail. Winter hiking is possible, but be aware that some hotels and restaurants are closed.
Join a Guided Fishermen’s Trail Trip
In November 2026, you can join Zinvol Reizen on the Historical Way and Fishermen’s Trail. In 6 days, you walk to the southernmost point of Portugal.
Read everything about the trip: Walking to the southernmost point of Europe (Dutch also for English or German speaking)
What hikers say:
“Last week I had a fantastic trip along the Fishermen’s Trail in Portugal — an experience I won’t forget quickly. Jacomijn radiates calm and enthusiasm, and you can tell how much love she puts into these trips.” – Martina, December 2025
“Perfekte Organisation und tolle Gruppe. Ich bin begeistert von dieser Küstenwanderung! Die Organisation war sehr gut, ich wurde professionell und kompetent geführt.” – Andrea, December 2025
Looking for some other hiking inspiration?
- Hiking on the Historical Way – Portugal
- Discover the Love Valley – Hiking in Cappadocia
- Adventurous hiking in Oman and Jordan
- 8 days pelgrimage on the Camino Frances – Pamplona to Burgos
- Hiking in the Alps – Stage 7 to 11 dgn on the Alpe Adria Trail
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