Visiting the 6th Dalai Lama’s Mother’s House: A Sacred Journey to Bekhar Village, Arunachal Pradesh

The scent of incense still lingers in the air. Ancient wood creaks softly beneath my feet as I walk through the narrow passageway. My heart pounds, not from the exertion of the mountain journey, but from the realization of where I stand: in the 6th Dalai Lama mother house Bekhar, where Tsewang Lhamo once lived.

Sonam, the sister of a young Rinpoche, closes the curtain behind me. The cushion on the wooden floor awaits me. A few candles flicker in the half-light, their warm glow dancing over centuries-old images and artifacts. The rice fields outside suddenly seem far away. Here, in this heart of the ancient house, there is only silence and an energy that has endured for generations.

The Journey to Bekhar: Following Ancient Footsteps

We had departed early that morning from Tawang. Sange from The Holiday Scout had given me this unique opportunity to visit a place where few people come. Through the mountain passes of the Himalayas, we wound our way to Bekhar, a village so small you can barely find it on a map. But what stands here is of immeasurable value.

In the middle of the countryside, surrounded by rice fields and forests, stands the house. Not imposing, but humble. Exactly as you would expect from a place so deeply connected to Buddhism.

Meeting the Guardian of Sacred Heritage

“Welcome,” says Sonam warmly as she receives us. Her smile tells stories, of traditions passed down from generation to generation, of a family that cherishes the legacy of the 6th Dalai Lama.

She explains why they officially call the house “the birthplace of the mother of the 6th Dalai Lama.” There is still discussion about where exactly the 6th Dalai Lama was born – here in Bekhar or in the monastery of Urgelling. But what is certain is that he lived here. And his descendants still live here today.

The 6th Dalai Lama, Tsangyang Gyatso, was born on 1 March 1683 in Mon Tawang, and his mother was Tsewang Lhamo, a Monpa woman from a royal family of Bekhar Village.

A Sacred Meal in Historic Surroundings

The lunch that Sonam serves is simple but perfect. Rice, vegetables, tea. But it’s the ambiance that makes everything special. We eat in silence, with the rice fields as backdrop and centuries-old images as witnesses. I feel the history in every bite, in every breath in this house.

Meditation in the Heart of Buddhist History

And then comes the moment I had traveled here for. Sonam draws the curtain, separating the living space from the spiritual space. The cushion is ready. The candles are lit.

I meditate often, in different places around the world. But here? This is different. This is the heart of the house where the mother of the 6th Dalai Lama lived, where he himself stayed. The energy here has witnessed stories that span centuries.

I take my position in lotus pose. My brain still races from the impressive ride through the Himalayas, from meeting Sonam, from realizing that this is no ordinary house. But slowly, very slowly, peace comes. And then I begin to feel…

My eyes close. It always takes a while before my brain settles, before I can truly feel where I am. But when that peace comes… then I begin to tune into what is here. Into the vibration that flows through the walls, through the floor, through the air itself.

Strangely enough, I don’t feel the deep calm I experienced a few days earlier in the ancient Laghayla monastery. Here the energy is livelier, more restless perhaps. Logical too, here people live and work, visitors come. The house breathes, still lives.

But it’s precisely that vitality that touches me. This place is not a museum, not an abandoned sanctuary. It’s a living piece of history where people still lead their daily lives, where traditions are still being lived.

Fifteen minutes. No more than that. But enough to raise questions that would occupy my mind for days. What was I allowed to learn here? How can I truly convey this kind of experience, this deep connection with history, spirituality, and humanity to others?

Not just visiting beautiful places, but being truly touched. Being changed. And sharing that transformation.

Sacred Artifacts and Living Heritage

After the meditation, Sonam shows us the religious artifacts kept in the house. Photos that show a period image almost too valuable for words. And then there is that stone, with what is claimed to be the footprint of the 6th Dalai Lama himself.

Real or not, it doesn’t matter. What counts is what it symbolizes: the connection between past and present, between story and reality, between spirituality and daily life.

The Monastery of Sacred Texts

Next to the house stands a small monastery where the 108 books of Buddhism are kept, once donated to the family, now safely stored after an earthquake that damaged the main house. Tibetan scriptures in Bodhi that have always been kept in the old house.

Even the puppies that run to meet us at the monastery near 6th Dalai Lama mother house in Bekhar feel special. As if everything here, living or not, is permeated with the history of this place.

Reflections on Sacred Travel

As we walk back to the car, I look back once more. What a privilege to be allowed to glimpse into this ancient history. The stories about the Dalai Lama and his flight from Tibet are no longer just stories, they have become tangible, feelable.

This piece of earth, these few houses in Bekhar, this 6th Dalai Lama mother house Bekhar full of history, reminds me why I travel. Not to check off places, but to be touched. To feel. To learn.

And sometimes, if you’re lucky, to meditate for fifteen minutes in the heart of something much greater than yourself.

Visiting the 6th Dalai Lama’s Mother’s House Bekhar: Practical Information

Location and Access

You can find this special place in Bekhar, Arunachal Pradesh, India. I couldn’t find this small village on any map – it’s really just a few houses. What I can assure you is that the car journey to the 6th Dalai Lama’s mother’s house alone is worth it. Not to mention the deep impressions this visit gave me.

What to Visit on the Route

Chakzam Bridge A must-visit on your way to this house is the ancient Chakzam Bridge. This bridge was built by Lama Tangto Gyalpo, who constructed multiple bridges in this region (Nepal, Bhutan, and former Tibet/Arunachal Pradesh). Only three remain now, and this is one of them.

Mukto Village In and near Mukto village, we spent a morning visiting a small local papermaker where we were allowed to make a sheet of paper ourselves. We also saw the making of authentic yak hats. Both are ancient crafts that are in danger of disappearing.

What a wonderful experience it was at both places to see the women at work and to participate ourselves.

Cultural Significance and Modern Recognition

In September 2024, an unnamed 20,942 ft. summit near Tawang, Arunachal Pradesh was officially named ‘Tsangyang Gyatso Peak’ in honor of the 6th Dalai Lama, highlighting the region’s continuing significance in Buddhist heritage.

This recognition underscores the importance of preserving and promoting the spiritual heritage of this region, making visits to places like the mother’s house in Bekhar even more meaningful for spiritual seekers and cultural enthusiasts.

Planning Your Spiritual Journey

This experience represents what meaningful travel is all about – not just visiting beautiful places, but being truly touched and changed. The opportunity to meditate in a space where the mother of a Dalai Lama lived, surrounded by artifacts that tell stories of a time that has passed but feels intimately close, offers a profound connection to Buddhist heritage.

For those seeking authentic spiritual tourism experiences in Arunachal Pradesh, this hidden gem in Bekhar village provides an unparalleled opportunity to connect with living Buddhist tradition in one of its most sacred birthplaces.

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