Marrakesh: The Red Pearl of Morocco
Marrakesh, also known as the “Red City” because of its characteristic terracotta-colored buildings, is one of the four Moroccan imperial cities and is located at the foot of the impressive Atlas Mountains. This thousand-year-old city, founded in 1062, is a fascinating mix of Berber, Arab and African cultures that has developed into one of North Africa’s most visited destinations.
With over one million inhabitants, Marrakesh is bursting with life. The city consists of two parts: the historic medina with its UNESCO-protected old town surrounded by a 19-kilometer-long city wall, and the modern Gueliz district with wide boulevards and contemporary facilities. The heart of the city beats at the world-famous Jemaa el-Fnaa square, where during the day market vendors sell their goods and in the evening street performers, snake charmers and storytellers steal the show.
Marrakesh is the perfect gateway to discover Morocco, from here you can make day trips to the Atlantic coast, the Atlas mountains, or even the Sahara desert. But the city itself offers enough to keep you busy for days with its labyrinth of souks, beautiful palaces, serene gardens and vibrant street life.
The city of Marrakesh in Morocco is a perfect destination for a weekend trip, but we deliberately chose six days to really explore this fascinating city and its surroundings. Together with my brother, I dove into this whirlwind of colors, scents and sounds. We were surprised from the first moment by the beauty of the city and the rich culture of Morocco.
Of course, not everything was rosy, already on the first afternoon in the old medina we were scammed. But that’s just part of it if you want an authentic experience in one of the most vibrant cities in North Africa.
Cycling Through the Arabian Nights
On our second day we decided to explore the city in a special way: by bike. We rented two bikes and made plans to ride around the imposing old city wall and discover the entire old medina. This historic medina is on the UNESCO World Heritage List for good reason – it’s a living museum where centuries-old traditions still exist.
We started our tour at the entrance of the old city, on the side where the majestic Koutoubia Mosque stands. This 12th-century minaret, with its perfect proportions and elegant decorations, formed the perfect starting point for our adventure. The 70-meter-high tower cast a long shadow over the busy square, while the first heat of the day was already noticeable.
Along the Ancient City Walls
We chose to cycle clockwise and mainly kept to the wide sidewalk for safety. Traffic in Marrakesh is chaotic and unpredictable, cars, scooters, donkeys and pedestrians share the narrow roads in a dance that only locals truly understand.
Along the way we saw work on the wall for restoration everywhere. Maintaining this 19-kilometer-long, terracotta-colored rampart must be a constant occupation. The wall dates from the 12th century and has endured a lot over the centuries from weather and wind, but also from the ravages of time.
The contrast was beautiful: on one side the changing cityscape of modern neighborhoods that gradually transitioned into traditional districts, and on the other side the pink wall with its many centuries-old gates. Each gate tells its own story and has its own character, some are beautifully decorated, others are simple and functional.
Arriving at a large roundabout, the signs pointed right towards the famous Menara Gardens. We noted this as a must-see for later, but decided to first complete our circuit around the medina.
Bab Agnaou: The Gateway to the South
At one point we couldn’t resist the temptation to take a closer look at one of the gates. We got off at the imposing Bab Agnaou, one of the 19 original gates in the city wall. This special gate, built in the 12th century during the Almohad Dynasty, still radiates the power and grandeur of medieval Morocco.
The name ‘Agnaou’ means ‘black’ or ‘land of the blacks’ in the Berber language, which probably refers to the fact that this gate points south, towards the rest of the African continent. On either side of the gate, old cannons are positioned, silent witnesses to the city’s military history.
We didn’t really have a good place to lock our bikes, but when we discovered a couple of sturdy traffic signs, that seemed like a great solution. With a smile at our improvisation, we walked through the gate into the medina.
Life in the Medina
Directly behind Bab Agnaou we found ourselves in a street full of nice, but clearly tourist-oriented shops. Walking further, we came near the famous Saadian Tombs. Although we could see from the outside that it was an impressive place, we decided to save the entrance fee and instead have a cup of tea on the roof terrace of a beautiful kasbah across the street.
From this terrace we had a beautiful view over the roofs of the medina, a sea of terracotta tiles, small domes and occasionally a minaret rising above everything. The scent of mint tea mixed with the scents of spices and incense rising from the streets.
Getting Lost in the Labyrinth of Streets
Back on the bike we dove deeper into the old medina. This was the real adventure: just turning into a street and seeing where you end up. In the labyrinth of alternately wide and narrow alleys, we lost our way several times, but that’s what made it so fun.
We cycled through streets where the daily life of the medina unfolded before our eyes. Women in colorful djellabas doing shopping, children playing in the street, craftsmen busy in their small workshops with traditional crafts. This is exactly why I no longer travel in groups, you only get these spontaneous encounters and discoveries when you have control over your own route.
The colors of Marrakesh are truly overwhelming. Every door seems to be painted in a different, intense pigment: deep blue, ochre yellow, emerald green. The doors themselves are often small works of art, decorated with ironwork or wood carvings made by masters generations ago.
If you want to explore the souks by foot and see it all check this Marrakech Souk Guide
Bahia Palace: An Oasis of Peace
After cycling through the busy souks for a while, we reached the Bahia Palace. Here we finally found a good place to park our bikes and took the time for an extensive visit to this architectural gem.
The palace is a true labyrinth of rooms, corridors and courtyards, each more beautiful than the other. The name ‘Bahia’ means ‘brilliance’ or ‘radiance’, and that name is more than justified. Everywhere you look you see beautiful details: geometric tile mosaics (zellige), intricately carved plasterwork, painted wooden ceilings.
But what captivated me most were the serene inner gardens with their water fountains. In the shade of orange trees and jasmine bushes you found a welcome rest from the hustle and bustle of the city. The sound of rippling water and the whisper of wind through the leaves created an almost meditative atmosphere.
The light falling through the different corridors and doorways created a constantly changing play of shadows and highlights on the decorative walls. It was as if we were walking through a three-dimensional work of art.
The Cheerful Return Journey
Back outside we found our bikes again and continued our route. Arriving at the other side of the medina, we saw the characteristic pink city wall again. Through another Bab (gate) we rode outside again and cycled along the outside of the wall.
Here we had a perfect view of the contrast between old and new Marrakesh. On one side the centuries-old medina with its traditional architecture, on the other side modern neighborhoods with apartments and office buildings.
The highlight of the day was perhaps when my brother decided to take photos over his shoulder, without looking at what he was pointing his camera at. I was absolutely convinced that all the photos would be failures, but when we looked at them later they turned out to be perfect, every single one! I literally got a sore stomach from laughing at his photographic talent.
Why Discover Marrakesh and Surroundings?
This bike day was just one of the many highlights of our six days in Marrakesh. The city offers so much more than just the famous Jemaa el-Fnaa and the souks. By getting on the bike we discovered hidden corners, came into contact with locals and got a much more authentic picture of this fascinating city.
Book your bike tour in Marrakesh and discover the city by bicycle
Practical tip: From Marrakesh you can easily make a day trip to Essaouira on the Atlantic coast. My brother and I also drove there and on the way we even saw the famous goats standing in the argan trees – a surrealistic but typically Moroccan scene!
For those who really want to experience Marrakesh, a bike is the perfect means of transport. You’re mobile enough to see a lot, but slow enough to really take it all in. And who knows what unexpected adventures you’ll encounter when you just turn into a random street…
Where to Stay in Marrakesh?
Staying in an authentic riad is of course a must! Check out Riad l’Oiseau du Paradis. A beautiful oasis in the busy city.
Would you like a swimming pool with your riad? Then Riad Les Oliviers & Spa might be your favorite.
Did you find this story inspiring? Share it with other travelers and help them discover how magical Marrakesh can be!
Can I inspire you to travel to other places too?
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