From 200km to 400km on the Camino Frances: Through the Meseta to the heart of Spain

In 2016, I walked the Camino Frances from Saint Jean Pied de Port to Santiago. My first update covered the first 200km on the Camino Frances, and this is where the story continues. I was walking into the feared Meseta, what would be waiting for me…

The Meseta: The heart of the Camino Frances

This section of the Camino Frances takes you through the legendary Meseta, the central Spanish plateau stretching between Burgos and León. The Meseta is simultaneously the most beloved and feared part of the entire pilgrimage. Some pilgrims praise the endless skies and the meditative nature of the views, while others complain about the bone-chilling wind that blows nine months a year and the depressing way you can see your destination for hours before you actually reach it.

What makes the Meseta so special?

• The flattest and driest part of the entire Camino Frances
• Vast grain fields stretching to the horizon
• Traditional villages with Romanesque churches as oases in the landscape
• The opportunity for deep introspection and spiritual reflection
• Approximately 180 kilometers of contemplative walking through the heart of Castilla y León

Keep reading to find out how it went 🙂 I’d been walking for 10 days already and was really starting to feel like a pilgrim.

Day 10 – Santa Domingo de la Calzada to Belorado 23.5 km

I started early in the morning again because it was going to be hot. I still had some issues with that little toe. There was a blister right on the tip… And that tip of my little toe always hides under the toe next to it… The surprising thing about walking with blisters, I learned later on this journey, is that at some point you just walk normally again, as long as you don’t take a break.

So I still enjoyed the views and the walking this day.

As you can see from the photo, I was starting to enter the meseta, the flat and supposedly boring part of the Camino Frances. Officially, the meseta starts after Burgos. I still enjoyed this flatland and the path that brought me closer to Santiago.

It was warm, and around 11:30 AM I arrived in Belorado and decided that was enough. I found another hostel with a swimming pool and enjoyed it thoroughly. I also hit the local market and bought some delicious dried fruit!

Day 11: Belorado to Ages 29 km

This day started with some rain – that was the first time since I’d started my pilgrimage. When it started raining, I could already see a village in the distance where I could go for my first cup of coffee and breakfast. By the time I finished eating, the rain had stopped and I could continue! My plan was to go to San Juan, but there were only 40 beds available and the next village was just 4 km further, so I walked a bit more.

Just before I arrived in Ages, all hell broke loose. This time it was a massive downpour with thunder. But before I got soaked, I’d found a hostel and was sitting there at a cozy table with fellow pilgrims, drinking a cafe con leche.

Ages is a really tiny place with no fewer than 2 hostels and a small supermarket. Perfect spot for pilgrims!

Climate and seasons on the Camino Frances

The changing weather conditions I experienced, from summer heat to sudden rain showers, are typical for this part of Spain. The Spanish climate on the Meseta knows extremes:

• Summer (June-August): Intense heat without shade, temperatures can reach 40°C
• Spring and Fall (April-May, September-October): Ideal walking conditions, sunny days alternating with occasional rain showers
• Winter (November-March): Ice-cold wind, possible snow and frozen ground

Many pilgrims underestimate the climate of the Meseta. While it can be suffocatingly hot in summer, it can get surprisingly cold in spring and fall. Good preparation for changing weather conditions is essential.

Day 12: Ages to Burgos 24 km

It was chilly in the morning for the first time when I left Ages. It had rained most of the night and honestly, I was just cold. This was the first time since I’d started my pilgrimage to Santiago. I walked at a brisk pace to warm up nicely… and that worked well.

I passed through a small village, Atapuerca. There are excavations here and a museum dedicated to these antiquities. I walked on – it was still early and especially still cold. When I had to walk up the mountain after Atapuerca, I started to warm up nicely.

When I reached the top, I was treated to an amazing view with a rising sun and this cross!

The rest of this day was walking along beautiful paths and roads to Burgos. I’d met some Dutch people and a woman from Drenthe who lives in Switzerland with her husband. The four of us walked into Burgos together.

Days 13/14 I explored Burgos.

Burgos: Medieval grandeur on the Camino

Burgos is much more than just a rest stop on the Camino Frances – it’s one of the most important historic cities in Northern Spain. This medieval city, once the capital of the kingdom of Castile, plays a crucial role in Spanish history.

Historical significance of Burgos:

• Birthplace of El Cid: Rodrigo Díaz de Vivar, the legendary medieval hero
• Royal city: For centuries the seat of the Castilian kings
• Trade center: Important hub on medieval trade routes
• Architectural jewel: The Gothic cathedral is on the UNESCO World Heritage List

The Cathedral of Burgos (dating from 1221) is one of the three great Gothic cathedrals of Spain, alongside those of Toledo and León. With its intricate sculptures, beautiful stained glass windows, and fascinating museum full of medieval art and artifacts, it’s a highlight for every pilgrim.

I have to say that after 2 weeks of pilgrimage, it felt strange to stand still that day. I felt like I was leaving my community, the people I’d been walking with for 2 weeks… They kept walking and I stood still. Actually, I wanted to continue too, but somehow I also thought it was good to build in a rest day. What a strange sensation!

The psychology of the middle section: Halfway through the pilgrimage

The middle part of the Camino Frances, roughly between days 10-20, brings unique psychological challenges. It’s often described this way, and this is exactly what I experienced.

This is the period when:

• The initial euphoria has ebbed and the real work begins
• Physical problems (like blisters) often flare up for the first time
• The routine of pilgrim life has settled in
• Doubts may arise about continuing the journey
• The pilgrim community really starts to form and close bonds develop

Many pilgrims experience this as a kind of “crisis” in their journey. The romantic image of the pilgrimage clashes with the daily reality of pain, fatigue, and the seemingly endless kilometers still ahead of you.

At the same time, this is often the moment when real transformation begins. And this would certainly begin for me the next day!

Day 15: Burgos to Hontanas 31.6 km

So the next day I continued. I was a pilgrim and I would walk those 800 km. I started that day with John, I’d met him a few villages back and this second night he was staying at the same hotel as me. We’d had delicious tapas the evening before… But after 10 km I felt I needed to continue at my own pace, it was going just a bit too slowly for me.

Yes… I felt pain! But I pushed through on those terrible gravel paths

I was pleasantly surprised when I saw John walking with Marianne. A Dutch woman I’d already met in Roncesvalles. I’d briefly met her that morning along the road and told her that if she saw John passing by to say hello from me 😉

Because there were no beds in the village where I was, I had to walk another 10 km after 20 km. I was in pain but there was nothing else to do. I walked together with Marianne and John to the next village for a bed!

Even with all those blisters, I still managed over 30 km that day!

John (Dutch… but also living in the USA for 40-50 years) and me

Foot problems on the Camino: Practical guide

Blisters are by far the most common problem on the Camino Frances. Almost every pilgrim deals with them sooner or later. Here are the key tips:

Prevention:

• Break in your shoes BEFORE the journey
• Change socks regularly (I changed at every break)
• Use preventive tape on sensitive spots
• Keep feet dry as much as possible
• Take your shoes off at every break

Treatment:

• Puncture blisters with a sterile needle
• Keep punctured blisters covered with Compeed
• Continue walking if possible – the foot settles into the shoe
• Don’t give up – almost everyone experiences this

When to worry:

• Red streaks from the blister (infection)
• Extreme swelling
• Fever
• Unable to walk at all

Day 16: Hontanas to Itero de la Vega 21 km

It was a tough day for me. My blisters were really hurting. I had blisters on both sides of my ankles, sort of half under the calluses. Plus I had that little blister on my pinky toe acting up, and on both sides of my big toes I had blisters. There were 5 of them now…

But of course I walked… I had to keep going, I wouldn’t give up! Even if I only walked 20 km, I was going to continue. Marianne and John were there to cheer me up and get me plasters, Compeed, or painkillers.

I wasn’t alone in my pain and struggle… That’s what life is like on the Camino!

Marianne taking a photo of this amazing sunrise!

At the top of the mountain stood this beautiful cross and we had an amazing view!

Day 17 – Itero de la Vega to Poblacion de Campos 14 km

This was my shortest day. My feet hurt so much… But I felt I had to keep going. Once I got on the road, it worked out okay. As long as I didn’t sit down…

Still, after about 10 km we sat down for a cup of coffee. I had a really hard time when I had to continue, and how happy I was when there turned out to be a hostel along that long road that was new. My new friends Marianne and John also thought it was a great plan to stay overnight here. It was La Finca between the villages of Fromista and Poblacion de Campos.

Castilla y León: Through the heart of historic Spain

This section of the Camino Frances takes you through Castilla y León, the largest autonomous region of Spain and historically the heart of the Spanish empire. This region houses an unparalleled treasure of Romanesque and Gothic architecture.

Highlights of the cultural heritage:

• Frómista: Church of San Martín, a jewel of 11th-century Romanesque architecture
• Carrión de los Condes: Churches of Santa María del Camino and Santiago
• Sahagún: The Mudéjar churches of San Lorenzo and San Tirso
• Castrojeriz: Ruins of the medieval castle and various churches

The route partly follows the old Roman Via Aquitania, the long road that connected the gold mines of Astorga with the rest of the Roman Empire. This historical connection gives extra meaning to every step on this ancient path.

Day 18: Poblacion de Campos to Carrion de los Condes 20 km

After this wonderful day, I started walking alone again. John had found his buddy again who he’d walked with for a while, and Marianne had to speed up because she had a time limit. She wanted to do at least 25 km and left early that morning. My feet hurt but I could handle it. I accidentally took the route that’s longer but also more beautiful… I’d always done that everywhere, but now I regretted it because of my feet 🙂

It was a beautiful city where as a pilgrim you can visit several shops where you could buy handy things. I bought a handy small bottle of laundry detergent and I bought Gehwol to harden my footbed.

How the shoes usually stand neatly in a cabinet in the hostels 🙂

Statue in the city of Carrion de los Condes

Day 19: Carrion de los Condes to Calzadilla de la Cueza 18 km

I left the city around 8 o’clock in the morning. I was starting later and later… Because I was also doing shorter days so I could afford this. If you arrive at the hostels later than 1 PM, you risk that most beds are taken. My plan was to walk only 12 km this day, it would be one long straight road.

That’s what I read in my guidebook and that’s what I’d prepared myself for.

I started on the long road and after about 2 hours of walking I saw a sign that it was still 6 km… I thought I was going to die! That couldn’t be right! If I’d only done 6 km in 2 hours of walking, something was really wrong! If that was the case, this was really the hardest day ever!

I walked on but it was tough… The road just kept going and seemed endless. I walked up the mountain and it took a long time before I could see what was behind it… When I could see further, I saw a village… And not even that far anymore… I practically fell into the village and rolled right into the first hostel. It was the little village of Calzadilla de la Cueza. I saw later that I’d walked 18 km…

How happy I was that I could take off my shoes and rest!

After that enormously long road, I was sitting in the garden of the small hostel when this hummingbird hawk-moth flew by and made me intensely happy!

Don’t you think that’s amazing?

Day 20: Calzadilla de la Cueza to Sahagun 21.5 km

I started without pain! How wonderful was that! It only lasted an hour… but still, how great did that feel! I took coffee breaks in every place I came across – that was about 4 or 5 times. Slowly I arrived in Sahagun and looked for a hostel. You’ll always find that you get lost, miss the signs, and walk an extra km or 2…

But eventually I ended up in a unique location to sleep. An old church in which a floor has been built where the beds were. Here I met Jerry and Terry again. I’d been seeing them for 3 days already… Super nice guys who I would walk with for the next few days!

The church you see on the right is the church where the hostel is!

Halfway: The turning point of the pilgrimage

And after Sahagun, my Camino still had 379 km to offer… That meant I was halfway… How awesome!

The halfway point of the Camino Frances is an important mental milestone. For many pilgrims, this is the moment when:

• Physical problems stabilize – your body is used to daily walking
• The pilgrim community strengthens – deep friendships develop
• Confidence grows – you now know you can reach Santiago
• The spiritual dimension of the journey begins to penetrate
• The pace can be adjusted to personal needs

This is also the moment when many pilgrims let go of their original plans and fully surrender to the rhythm of the Camino. As I did when I decided to let go of my strict schedule and focus on the experience itself.

I did regain confidence in my feet and felt it was getting better. My blisters were almost gone and this last day I’d even started without pain. My goal was to arrive in Santiago in early October so I’d still have a week in Portugal, but I let that goal go. I wanted to spend my time on the Camino in complete peace. If I had time left over that would be nice, otherwise I could just take the train to Lisbon and fly to the Netherlands.

I was going to take my time for this once in a lifetime experience of your first pilgrimage!

The power of the pilgrim community

The experience is truly amazing! Every time, wherever I went, I saw familiar faces again… Even though I’d never been to that place before. It felt so wonderful! Walking and talking with all kinds of people along the way. All traveling in the same direction, all with the same goal and all with different reasons and experiences… Asking about each other and caring for one another. It’s truly amazing!

What makes the Camino community so special:

• International diversity: Pilgrims from all corners of the world
• Shared experience: Everyone has the same physical and mental challenges
• Mutual care: Spontaneous help with problems like blisters or fatigue
• No judgment: Background, status, or wealth don’t matter
• Temporary but intense friendships: Connections that often last a lifetime

We were all in a foreign country but we’re all part of our community that binds us together.

Read all the post about this great and wonderful Camino:

• Walking my First 200 K of the Camino
• Walking from 400K to 600K on the Camino Frances
• Reaching My Goal – Camino Frances