Half-timbered houses climbing up a hillside, a medieval castle above a small copper town, and a cathedral where Charlemagne himself was crowned: this Eifel road trip took me through Monschau, Stolberg and Aachen in four days, all just a few hours’ drive from home.
I had a few days off and could borrow my dad’s camper. So naturally, you go on a road trip! I’d already been to France before, and last year I went to Bruges and Kinderdijk… so this time, Germany was up. I let one idea after another pass by, until I came across photos of Monschau. Those few pictures were enough: I knew right away, what a beautiful little town! I didn’t need any more convincing.
Why an Eifel road trip is worth it
The Eifel lies just a few hours’ drive from the Dutch border, and yet you step into a completely different world. Half-timbered houses, narrow alleys, old castles and green valleys follow each other throughout this region in North Rhine-Westphalia. I travelled in my dad’s camper, but this route works just as well by car, booking a hotel or guesthouse in each town along the way.
Monschau: half-timbered houses and the Panoramaweg
Arriving at campsite Perlenau
I’d already found a campervan spot online, a small campsite just outside Monschau called Perlenau. I booked two nights and cycled straight into town. Riding into the old part of town genuinely felt like cycling into the Middle Ages.
If you’re road-tripping by car, you’ll probably look for a hotel in town itself. To really experience the charm of Monschau, stay at Haus Stehlings, right in the old centre with a view over the Rur. You can also check these other places to stay in Monschau.
That same evening, I was already sitting on a terrace in Monschau enjoying dinner. I love my life! What a meaningful way to spend your time.
Walking the Panoramaweg
The next day I went hiking. I spotted a sign for the Panoramaweg, and that’s an easy sell for me: I love a great view. And when a place as lovely as this offers one, I’m quickly on my way. Steps led up narrow paths past pretty houses, opening out into greenery and offering a great view over the valley this beautiful town sits in.
Across the way I had a view of the castle, which I obviously had to visit later. First, a bit higher up. There I found the remains of a castle, lookout post, or something similar. Another great view from here too.
The path seemed to keep going. Naturally I followed it, and it led further and further away from town. At some point, walking past meadows, I realised I’d end up back at Perlenau sooner than back in town, so I turned around. Unfortunately my knee still bothers me from the Nijmegen Four Days Marches… and I felt it right away on the way back down.
Walking through town afterwards, on your way up to the castle, takes you through some of the most wonderful little streets again. The old town is small, but genuinely every street is photogenic, wonderful to wander through.
Cycling the Vennbahnradweg
One day was enough for me in the lovely town of Monschau, and since I also had a bike on the back of the camper, I went exploring the surroundings. Right next to town I saw a sign for the Vennbahnradweg. If you’re in the Eifel, you’ll come across this path almost everywhere. It stretches 125 kilometres through the Eifel.
I started cycling and soon read more about the path’s history on the information boards along the route. It used to be a railway rather than a cycle path, an important supply route. Fascinating to learn what was transported along it, who used it, and how it served different purposes over time: during the First and Second World Wars, and even as a smuggling route for coffee and other goods.
Stolberg: the copper town of the Eifel
From Monschau to Stolberg
I woke up to water dripping on the camper roof. It was raining. I’d ordered two rolls from the campsite manager and picked them up. With the door ajar, I sat in the camper enjoying my coffee with German bread rolls.
The decision was quick: I was leaving. Time to find somewhere new, hopefully with a bit of sun. A little further back toward the Netherlands. Looking at the area on Google Maps, Stolberg seemed like a good option, known as the copper town, with plenty of history to see. Pack up and go, that’s how easy it is with a camper.
The castle of Stolberg
Driving into Stolberg, I immediately spotted a great-looking castle. Looking for a place to park the camper, I lost sight of it for a while, and ended up parking at the Zinkhutter Hof museum. A beautiful building and an interesting museum, but I wanted to get to that castle first.
I hopped on the bike right away, and it took a while before I found the castle again. First, a good lunch with a view of the Rathaus, then I cycled around. In the end I just had to use Google Maps to point me the right way, which doesn’t happen to me often.
But once I finally found the castle: fantastic! There’s a church attached, a number of outbuildings, and it’s all free to visit. There’s a restaurant in the main building, but you can just walk through the rest, wherever the doors are open. Part of it is set up as an exhibition, part is closed off. I loved wandering through it, trying every door to see which ones were open and which weren’t. Some were open, but not really meant for visitors.
It’s not a museum, but what’s on display is put together nicely, giving you a sense of what it looked like in the past. The views alone make it worth wandering around here for a while.
Walking into the neighbourhood on the other side felt like stepping into the Middle Ages. A number of really lovely streets in keeping with the castle’s atmosphere.
I couldn’t find a spot for the camper in Stolberg, even after asking a parking attendant, so I drove on to Aachen. Barely half an hour’s drive, which worked out perfectly for dinner.
Fancy staying a night in Stolberg? Have a look at these hotels in Stolberg to find a nice spot. I’d book the historic Alte Mühle myself.
Aachen: the cathedral and Aachener Printen
Staying just outside the centre
In Aachen I’d found a campervan spot online at the edge of the centre, with a toilet block and showers. There were even people with a caravan there. For the night, I like being near other campers, purely for keeping an eye out for each other. Safety first, of course. I paid 17 euros for the night, including electricity, water, toilet and shower.
Visiting Aachen Cathedral
I cycled straight into town, about ten minutes away. I got there just before closing time and managed to visit the cathedral. The round part, the Octagon, is free to visit, but for photography you’re expected to give a euro to the man keeping watch. Afterwards, a lovely dinner with a view of the cathedral.
The next day I took a guided tour of the cathedral, hoping for a nice view over the city, but that turned out not to be the case. These tours run every couple of hours, alternating between German and English; prices and times do change, so check in advance on the cathedral’s website. During this visit we were allowed up to the upper gallery to see the marble coronation throne of Charlemagne. More than thirty kings were crowned on it, and it’s certainly not a luxurious, beautiful crown. I don’t imagine it was ever comfortable to sit on either… it’s made of marble, after all.
Want to be sure you get to see the throne? Book a guided tour in advance of Aachen Cathedral.
Walking through the centre of Aachen
The city itself has a lovely Rathaus, a theatre and plenty of atmospheric streets to wander through. Lots of shops for browsing, and in Aachen they have their famous cookies, Aachener Printen, which you’ll spot everywhere. Since everyone kept talking about them, I bought a small bag at Nobis… and now I’m quite the fan of those cookies.
I went back for a delicious sausage summer salad at Hanswurst, also on the square by the cathedral, where I’d already eaten wonderfully the evening before. That time I had the Hans Thüringen, served with mashed potato, gravy and red cabbage. Delicious.
Fancy staying in a hotel in Aachen? My tip: INNSiDe, or check these Aachen options for your road trip.
Practical tips for your Eifel road trip
How to Get There
The Eifel is roughly two to four hours’ drive from the Netherlands, depending on where you set off from. My own drive to Monschau took about three hours. Monschau, Stolberg and Aachen sit close together, just over the border near Vaals and Aachen, so this route also works well as a shorter weekend trip.
When to Go
I travelled in summer, with warm evenings on a terrace in Monschau. Keep in mind that Monschau in particular can get very busy with day-trippers during the summer months. If you prefer things quieter, spring or autumn is a good alternative.
How Long to Stay
I set aside four days for this route: two nights in Monschau, a stop in Stolberg and an overnight stay in Aachen. If you’d rather take it slower, an extra day is easily well spent, especially if you want to explore more of the Vennbahnradweg or fit in another hike in Eifel National Park.
Where to Stay
I travelled in my dad’s camper and stayed at small campsites, at Perlenau near Monschau and at the edge of the centre in Aachen. If you’d rather travel by car, each of the three towns works well from a hotel or guesthouse, such as Haus Stehlings in Monschau, the Alte Mühle in Stolberg, or INNSiDe in Aachen.
I always bring my own reusable water bottle #ad. My mission is to eliminate single-use plastic — refilling instead of throwing away is one of the easiest ways to contribute as a traveler. A tote bag #ad for small purchases helps avoid unnecessary plastic waste while traveling.
Also read
- Hiking trip around Winterberg, Germany
- Weekend in Bruges: Best Things to Do in 2 Days
- Visit the surprising Externsteine – Teutoburg Forest
- The Hermannshoehen Hiking Trail
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