The Birthplace of Kunta Kinte: A Journey Through Slavery History. When I was in The Gambia, I went inland for a few days and visited Janjanbureh. There I saw up close several places where slavery history came alive. I was deeply moved by this. I had heard about this place when I was in Juffureh, The Gambia, to visit Fort James Island. This is the birthplace of Kunta Kinte from the famous series Roots. I visited the famous Fort James Island in the Gambia River.
Fortunately, Fort James Island has been on the UNESCO World Heritage List since 2003, giving it protected status and ensuring help with maintenance. In 2011, Fort James Island was given the new name Kunta Kinte Island during the International Roots Festival.
Why Visit Fort James Island?
Fort James Island, now officially called Kunta Kinte Island, is one of the most important historical sites in West Africa. The island played a crucial role in the trans-Atlantic slave trade and became world-famous through the bestseller and television series Roots by Alex Haley. For anyone interested in history, particularly slavery history, this is an unforgettable and emotional experience.
The Journey to Juffureh: An Adventure in Itself
It was quite an adventure getting there. The water level was too high and the water too rough, so the ferries weren’t running. We could only cross on the large fishing boats. So we decided to do that. I had a Gambian with me who negotiated for me and served as a guide. Read why I preferred this way of traveling in The Gambia. After a brief negotiation, I was lifted onto the shoulders of a Gambian who carried me to the boat that was just off the coast. That was already an adventure in itself.
Shortly after, Amadou, also called Aka, was also put on someone’s shoulders and carried to the boat. The boat was naturally overloaded and the word safe was nowhere to be found. Still, I stayed seated and eventually we made the crossing. And I’m writing this now, so yes… we made it safely to the other side! Sometimes you have to take risks, right? Of course I can’t recommend this, but I would do it again in a heartbeat. I found it a wonderful experience!
Arrival in Juffureh
On the other side we arranged a taxi and headed to Juffureh, The Gambia. Over dusty red sand roads we drove until we finally arrived at the coast where a small museum has been built.
Shortly after, we boarded a boat to go to the island.
When you really think about what happened here, it makes you feel sick. You can’t really imagine the suffering that was endured here… The people whose lives were destroyed to make other people’s lives easier… Terrible!
It’s such a different time… selling people as slaves. The suffering of people who were no longer seen as human.
The History of Fort James Island
Fort James Island was founded in 1651 by Duke Jacob Kettler of Courland (now Latvia) and was originally called Fort Jakob. Later the fort came into British hands and was renamed after James, Duke of York.
The island functioned as an important trading post for British slave traders.
From the 17th to the 19th century, thousands of Africans were shipped through this island as slaves to America and the Caribbean. The fort served as the last stop before slaves made the terrible Middle Passage across the Atlantic Ocean.
Kunta Kinte: From Juffureh to World Fame
If you go to The Gambia, you shouldn’t skip this place. If you go inland you’ll also come to Georgetown. Also a place where slaves were collected by slave drivers. They were put on the ship to Fort James Island, the last place on Gambian territory before being shipped out into the world.
Fort James Island became very famous through the Kunta Kinte series and therefore attracts more tourism. Kunta Kinte is the African slave from the Roots series, Kunta Kinte has his origins in the village of Juffureh, The Gambia.
The Roots series, based on Alex Haley’s 1976 book, tells the story of Kunta Kinte, a young man from Juffureh who was captured in 1767 and shipped to America as a slave. The story follows his descendants through several generations of slavery.
The series had enormous impact worldwide and brought slavery history to life for millions of viewers and also to me.
What You’ll See on Kunta Kinte Island (Fort James Island)
On the island only some remains of the buildings where slaves were once held still stand. Here they sat in deplorable conditions, sometimes for days, waiting for the boats that would ship them further into the world.
The island is small and you can explore it in about 45 minutes. You’ll see the ruins of:
- The fortress walls and cannons
- The slave quarters where people were locked up in inhumane conditions
- The quay walls where slave ships moored
- Information plaques telling the history
Although not many buildings remain standing, the power of this place lies precisely in what it represents. It’s a place of reflection and commemoration.
The Museum in Juffureh
Before you go to the island, you visit the small but informative museum in Juffureh. Here you’ll find:
- Historical information about the slave trade in The Gambia
- Background about Kunta Kinte and the Roots series
- Artifacts and old photos
- Information about daily life in the region
This museum prepares you for what you are about to see. It gives context and makes your experience more compleet.
Practical Information: How to Get to Fort James Island?
From the Coastal Hotels (Kololi, Kotu, Bijilo)
Most people who visit The Gambia will have a hotel or resort on The Strip. This is a long coastal road that stretches along the villages of Kotu, Kololi and extends along Bijilo. After this, hotels/resorts become fewer and you enter more local Gambia.
If you take a (bush/shared) taxi from the strip or the so-called Gelly-Gelly. The gelly-gellys all run a fixed route so you have to take 3 different taxis to get to Banjul. Of course you can also take a regular tourist taxi, a bit more expensive but it will take you to the harbor in one go to make the crossing.
The Ferry from Banjul to Barra
From Banjul you take the boat to Barra to then take another taxi that takes you to Juffureh. The ferry departs regularly, but times can vary depending on the tide and weather conditions. This is a journey of over an hour through the Gambian landscape. There’s plenty to see and experience along the way. I wasn’t bored for a second with what the roadside offered in terms of sights.
From Barra to Juffureh
From Barra it’s about an hour’s drive to Juffureh on mostly unpaved roads. You pass authentic Gambian villages and get a nice glimpse into local life.
Costs and Time Investment for Your Visit
When you arrive in Juffureh there’s a small museum to visit and then you take the boat to the island. I also walked around there for about 45 minutes. All in all you’ll spend just over 2 hours seeing everything including the boat trip from Juffureh to Fort James Island or Kunta Kinte Island.
But to do this trip you definitely need to set aside a whole day as you’ll read. Before you’re in Juffureh you’ve already had quite an adventure. This is exactly what makes traveling in The Gambia so nice and adventurous!
Estimated Costs (indicative):
- Ferry Banjul-Barra: approximately 50-100 dalasi per person
- Taxi Barra-Juffureh (round trip): 500-800 dalasi (negotiable)
- Museum and island entrance fee: approximately 100-200 dalasi
- Local guide (optional but recommended): 200-500 dalasi
Note: Prices can vary and are negotiable. It’s wise to agree on the total price with your taxi driver in advance.
Tips for Your Visit to Fort James Island
- Set aside a whole day – The journey is long but every part is worthwhile
- Take a guide – A local guide can tell you much more about the history and help with negotiations
- Respect the place – This is a historic burial ground and memorial site
- Bring cash – There are no ATMs in Juffureh
- Wear comfortable shoes – You’ll be walking on uneven ground
- Protect yourself from the sun – Bring plenty of water, sunscreen and a hat
- Combine with other places – Consider adding Georgetown and Janjanbureh to your route
Accommodation in the Area
I stayed in the coastal town of Bijilo during my vacation in The Gambia. Would you also like to book a nice hotel for your stay here? Then take a look at your options in Bijilo, The Gambia. Many trips are offered by the larger companies with flight and hotel in one price. Of course everything can be booked separately so you may retain more freedom to go inland for longer.
Most travelers stay on the coast in areas like Kololi, Kotu or Bijilo and do Fort James Island as a day trip. There are limited accommodations in Juffureh itself, but for an authentic experience there are some guesthouses available.
Frequently Asked Questions About Fort James Island
- Is Fort James Island the same as Kunta Kinte Island? Yes, since 2011 the official name is Kunta Kinte Island, but many people still know it as Fort James Island.
- Can I visit Fort James Island without a guide? Technically yes, but a local guide is strongly recommended. They can tell you much more about the history and help with practical matters like transport and negotiations.
- How long does the boat trip to the island take? The boat trip from Juffureh to the island takes about 10-15 minutes.
- Is there a restaurant in Juffureh? There are limited eating establishments. It’s wise to bring water and possibly some snacks.
- Is Fort James Island suitable for children? Yes, but keep in mind that the subject (slavery) can be heavy. It’s a good educational experience for older children who can understand the context.
My Personal Reflection
A visit to Fort James Island is not a light day trip. It’s a confronting experience that makes you think about one of the darkest periods in human history. But that’s exactly why it’s so important to visit this place. We must never forget the history of slavery.
The journey there is an adventure, but the destination itself is above all a place of silence and reflection. It’s a place where you need to pause and consider what happened and how many lives were destroyed. For me this visit was one of the most impressive experiences of my trip through The Gambia. Not because of spectacular sights, but because of the meaning and history that this small place carries.
Want to read more about visiting The Gambia?
- Cycling to the fishmarket of Tanji – The Gambia
- 3 days Wassu & Kuntaur – Stone Circles and Baboon Island
- Surfing in Kartong – The Gambia
- Having dinner with the Locals – The Gambia
Or visit Morocco – Travel Guide Fez
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